Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

[Turbo1Ton]

Most tp center tubes are about 1. 625" these days. Here in good old Tulsa Oklahoma, Scott 1000 has a 1. 5" center tube which is exactly what is required for a tight fit on the center post of the Frantz. I have found that if I remove 55-60 wraps it fits very snug in the can. Although sometimes I wonder if I am not getting it in there too tight.



DaveK98, if you look in my reader's rigs pics you can kind of see how I mounted mine. I used a piece of 3" wide 1/8" thick steel and bent it 90 degrees so it had about a 4. 5" leg and a 2. 5" leg. I drilled 2 holes to mount the Frantz bracket on the 4. 5" leg as far up as I could. Then I took the passenger battery loose and slid the 2. 5" leg under the battery and bolted it back down. I have about 6000 miles on it like that and it seems very secure. Plus if for some reason I ever decide I need to remove it, it is very simple to get out.



I need to do a filter change today or tomorrow so let me know if you would like some more pics. I can snap a few while I'm doing that.



Jeff

 

[DaveK98]

Jeff! that is exactly the info I was looking for.



I'm going to head out to buy some of the scott 1. 5 inch tube you mentioned.



I think your idea of mounting is better than mine. I'm guessing that the battery is "slightly" off level, probably not a big deal. If you had to make it over again is 4. 5 inches tall enough or could you get it higher?

 

[steved]

The only thing I would be worried about the battery being "off level" is the fact that it could actually deform the battery itself, potentially causing an internal short or worse, an explosion.



If I were to make a mount that way, I would make sure the entire battery bottom is supported, to prevent it from potentially being damaged.



steved

 

[amsoilman]

I got my Amsoil filter and bracket last night... looks good... fat little filter.



The orifice in the Amsoil filter is about 1/16"... I'm going to leave well enough alone on mine...



Ordering the hose, oil cap swivel, and cooler today... ran into the same issue as you... where to mount on a 3rd gen... decided to mount everything on the passenger side like the FASS mounts to the drivers side... should be easy enough...



steved

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Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Steved, I never considered that to be a problem. I discussed my mounting solution with my friend that works for Interstate batteries and he never mentioned any concerns about that(not to say they aren't valid). I guess I kind of assumed that the bottom of the battery case would be rigid enough to maintain the shape with the 1/8" difference. Initially I was just doing it for a temporary mount until I could come up with something more permanent. It works well so I just haven't put forth much effort to conjure up anything else. Maybe I could make one with a longer bottom leg and rotate it up 90 degrees and bolt it to the side of the battery tray.



Dave, I just made it so the top of the filter can was about the same level as the intake tube. I think there would be room to make it a little bit taller if you wanted to. The nice thing about the way it is mounted is that if you wanted to make it taller, it is easy to put in place to check for fit. If it is too tall, it isn't that hard to cut it down and drill more holes. I installed everything without removing anything but the battery hold down.



Also, you might still take a scale with you to check for center tube dimensions. I originally set out to find one and it just so happened that the Scott 1000 had it. According to others on here, the Scott 1000 that they can get has the larger tube.



Jeff

 

[steved]

OK, getting stuff around to install my filter... had a question.



Since the orifice in the filter head is approximately 1/16"... I should be alright running 1/4" line correct... I mean even if it isn't "optimum", I still should get plenty of flow and filtering... 1/4" line under 50psi should flow quite a bit of fluid even at lengths around 10 feet right?? Enough to feed that small orifice...



I'm going to use hydraulic hose so that I don't need to worry about it... got those off ebay last night... going to order the cooler and Amsoil fitting today (I know, said I would do it yesterday... I procrastinate a lot)...



Found a spot on the front bed support to mount the filter... now I just need all the pieces...



steved

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I'm running 1/4" hose through a 1/16" orifice and I have plenty of flow through the Frantz. I think you will be fine. If you return the oil to the filler cap then you can always take it loose and visually check how much flow you have.



I have read somewhere the amount of flow that Cummins says is okay to bypass. I can't remember where that is right now but I think that they said no larger than a 2mm orifice.



Jeff

 

[steved]

I'm running 1/4" hose through a 1/16" orifice and I have plenty of flow through the Frantz. I think you will be fine. If you return the oil to the filler cap then you can always take it loose and visually check how much flow you have.



I have read somewhere the amount of flow that Cummins says is okay to bypass. I can't remember where that is right now but I think that they said no larger than a 2mm orifice.



Jeff

Yeah, it is a 2mm orifice... I think it is in this thread... somewhere.



I think the consensus was that anything between 1/16" and 1/8" was fine.



I had this question for the frantz... how do you know it is in need of chage? Do you change it on a time schedule? Do you see a decrease in flow when you change it? Have you ever had it plug off because you didn't get to change it??



I'm wondering how I'm going to tell this Amsoil filter is getting "full" (read: needing changed)... since I'm running Dino oil, I don't know how often I'll need to change the filter... these 3rd gens really blacken the oil quick...



steved

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I had this question for the frantz... how do you know it is in need of chage? Do you change it on a time schedule? Do you see a decrease in flow when you change it? Have you ever had it plug off because you didn't get to change it??



I'm wondering how I'm going to tell this Amsoil filter is getting "full" (read: needing changed)... since I'm running Dino oil, I don't know how often I'll need to change the filter... these 3rd gens really blacken the oil quick...



steved

According to Frantz's website:



"After you install your Frantz Oil Cleaner/Filter, the first Element Change should be at 500 miles. Thereafter, these guidelines should be followed.

In Town Driving: Change your TP Element every 2 months or 2000 miles.

Highway Driving: Change your TP Element every 4 months or 5000 miles.

If you're driving is a combination, change your TP Element every 3 months or 3000 miles.

Diesel Engines should decrease these limits by 25%. "



I know for me I just go off of a mileage increment. Since the filters are cheap I'm not too worried about it. I usually try to get to it about every 2500 miles or so. Some have said that you can tell if it is getting plugged by whether or not it gets hot(meaning no oil flow through it). Well, I know that going off of that theory(fairly sound theory) that mine has yet to plug up.



One suggestion is to plumb up a small pressure guage pre-filter and reference the pressure reading when you first install it. Then when the pressure starts to increase you would know that it is starting to plug. You could also get a 12v differential pressure switch and hook it up to turn on an indicator lamp on your dash. Set the switch to whatever amsoil says is the max delta for those filters(or a little below).



Just a few suggestions.



Jeff

 

[amsoilman]

Yeah, it is a 2mm orifice... I think it is in this thread... somewhere.



I think the consensus was that anything between 1/16" and 1/8" was fine.



I had this question for the frantz... how do you know it is in need of chage? Do you change it on a time schedule? Do you see a decrease in flow when you change it? Have you ever had it plug off because you didn't get to change it??



I'm wondering how I'm going to tell this Amsoil filter is getting "full" (read: needing changed)... since I'm running Dino oil, I don't know how often I'll need to change the filter... these 3rd gens really blacken the oil quick...



steved

All you need to do is "Feel" the top portion of the Amsoil filter, and this will tell you if there is no flow/or little flow! With the Amsoil oils, Amsoil recommends 25,000/one year change interval if not towing heavily or extensive idleing & driving in Dusty areas. IF towing heavily, or short drives less than 10 miles/day, then they recommend a change at 15,000/12 Months If other oils are used, they recommend change at the Manufacturers change interval. You can run them longer "IF OIL ANALYSIS" is used.



There other recommendation is to change FILTER, whenever the oil is changed!

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I know for me I just go off of a mileage increment. Since the filters are cheap I'm not too worried about it.

EXACTLY!



While I normally follow a general 2 to 2. 5K TP cartridge interval, I sometimes, depending on severity of service or clarity of the oil, change sooner. The TP cartridges are so cheap, along with the added quart of oil, it's really no big deal!



Shucks, a replacement TP cartridge and quart of Delo 400 runs less than the cost of a gallon of diesel fuel! :-laf :-laf

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Something that I have been meaning to ask about is the quart of 'make-up' oil. I usually change the element and take the truck for a little spin. When I come back I let it sit for a while and then check the oil. Amazingly enough, I have yet to see the oil level change after I put a new element in. Any guesses as to why this is?



Jeff

 

[steved]

Something that I have been meaning to ask about is the quart of 'make-up' oil. I usually change the element and take the truck for a little spin. When I come back I let it sit for a while and then check the oil. Amazingly enough, I have yet to see the oil level change after I put a new element in. Any guesses as to why this is?



Jeff

As to the density of the paper, I doubt you are losing more that a cup of oil before the paper is saturated.



steved

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Steved, that's pretty much what I was figuring. Glad to hear that I'm not way off base here.



I know that I have zero mess when I change the elements as everything has drained down.



Jeff

 

[steved]

OK, I just noticed that two plugs exist on the OEM filter head... one looks like it might come off the "clean" side... the other looks like it might be off the "dirty" side... which one do I use?? The "clean" one looks like it is too far in to actual put a fitting on...



So which one is used? I would hate to run unfiltered oil through the bypass filter since it would potentially plug off quicker.



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

A pictures worth... . UMMmmmm maybe several words:



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[steved]

Ok, but does it matter which one of those ports I use? Looking at the 3rd gen head, it looks like one is for "clean" oil, and the other is for unfiltered "dirty" oil...



All that picture did is make me have another question...



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Haven't seen a 3rd generation filter head - sorry, can't help...

 

[Turbo1Ton]

steved, I asked the same question. I am using the one that is farthest from the block, look at my reader's rigs for a pic. Wayne(amsoilman) posted a pic of his and that is where he was taking his from. I believe that if you are putting any kind of a fitting in there then you can really only use that one. Not to mention that the oil filters from the outside of the element to the inside, so I would think that the port in question comes right off of the filtered oil(right out of the center of the full flow filter).



Question for you Gary, when you put the element(tp) in the can, do you unwrap enough so that it will slide in without wrinkling up at all? I just changed mine tonight and I took off about 60 wraps and when I pushed it down into the can, the sides kind of wrinkled up so that when I finally got it into the can, the edges were a little bit higher than the center. I hope that makes sense. I should have taken a picture.



Jeff

 

[steved]

steved, I asked the same question. I am using the one that is farthest from the block, look at my reader's rigs for a pic. Wayne(amsoilman) posted a pic of his and that is where he was taking his from. I believe that if you are putting any kind of a fitting in there then you can really only use that one. Not to mention that the oil filters from the outside of the element to the inside, so I would think that the port in question comes right off of the filtered oil(right out of the center of the full flow filter).

I was looking at it this way... the turbo supply is directly under the inner most plug... the unlike Gary's, the turbo has it's own dedicated port... I wouldn't think they would feed dirty oil to the turbo... that was my reasoning in this question. But I doubt they changed the head that much, so if we folllow what is on Gary's truck, then the outer port was used to feed the turbo back then...



I read this entire thread again last night... someone stated that BOTH plugs are clean oil... so I guess it is a matter of which one is easier.



steved