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Bad injectors at 95K miles... is this normal?

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Oil Leak help please

AAM axle cover

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I have a no start issue when not plugged in down here in SoCal. The dealer says injectors, I say not so fast !

The challenges and frustration you are facing is exactly why I'm not shelling out $$$.

I will follow your post as it may be helpful to my situation injector-wise.

If I have to go that route it will be with Don's F1's and a mild HP upgrade. Also an installation by a reputable aftermarket Diesel shop. Plenty listed here in the TDR.

I feel your pain and wish you the best. If I learn of anything that will help you, I will share it.
 
I am not sure what I have done right, but 90% of the 247,00 miles on my '05 are highway. I put a jug of diesel clean in at each 5K oil change and still running the original injectors. Fuel filter changed every 10K.
 
If no Smarty, maybe try a Rokktech crank position sensor on there to advance the timing up to 2 degree's? If that changes things you're on the right track with the ECM timing possibly being the culptit. If you're close to Denver, I have one you could try. Take's 5 minutes to install. If I'm off base here, sorry, didn't read every post, just trying to help. Mike
 
One issue you may have is some diesel shops that may be well qualified in oem configurations but not familiar in performance applications
 
I just want to have my fuel system checked.


I went to get an alignment.
Three places couldn't do it cause the tires' bead covers the edge of the rim. I have to put my Hummers on for alignment.
 
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Three places couldn't do it cause the tires' bead covers the edge of the rim. I have to put my Hummers on for alignment.

What the heck does that mean? :confused: If the bead doesn't cover the edge rim I would be worried.

Considering the alignment machines hook onto the exteriro of the bead and the rim itself not sure what they are telling you.
 
They all had a Hunter machine. The units that mount on the rim have fingers that grab onto the outer edge of the rim. The way my tires are made the inner bead totally covers the rim edge. Factory rims have metal out past the tire to grab onto. They can't get those fingers in between rubber and rim. Also the inner face is an angle so nothing can grab. Maybe there are other machine designs that can deal with this but so far no luck.
 
My truck steers fine and the alignment is not affecting my drivability issues. That said (and with respect to the engine issues)...





If no Smarty, maybe try a Rokktech crank position sensor on there to advance the timing up to 2 degree's? If that changes things you're on the right track with the ECM timing possibly being the culptit. If you're close to Denver, I have one you could try. Take's 5 minutes to install. If I'm off base here, sorry, didn't read every post, just trying to help. Mike



... tell me more about how crank position sensors affect the running of the engine with respect to how the ECM times the injection cycle. Where is the crank position sensor located?



Rokkteck, I am about 125 miles from the Denver metro area... I may take you up you offer in my attempts of eliminating items that could be affecting my drivability concerns.
 
The crankcase sensor is mounted up close to the tone ring where the crank pully rotates the serpentine belt, driver side. 10mm allen wrench to remove it for inspection.
My understanding is the HO engine injection timing is retarded for emissions. It will advance the timing to inject the fuel closer to TDC. I think the Rokktech sensor is better suited for a HO if you don't want to spend the $495 for a Smarty.
I have an early '03 oddball SO 250hp motor so I'm doing EGT/Boost gauges soon, along with a Smarty Jr. reprogram to bring my motor up to a 305hp status and adjust it from there. I tried the Rokktech but my ECM needs to be reprogrammed... it's quite a dog in stock form!
If your sensor is bad maybe it is the culprit. So many of the guys on here are far more educated than I, so chime in with your opinion.
 
If no Smarty, maybe try a Rokktech crank position sensor on there to advance the timing up to 2 degree's? If that changes things you're on the right track with the ECM timing possibly being the culptit. If you're close to Denver, I have one you could try. Take's 5 minutes to install. If I'm off base here, sorry, didn't read every post, just trying to help. Mike

Advancing the timing at altitude will only amplify the issue. In the region that the knock occurs the timing is pretty advanced in stock form, and the knock comes from too much pressure BTDC, more timing will make more pressure and more knock.
 
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