Buying '78 Lil Red Express Truck

[DavidC]

I have used fiberglass matting on things like that, just keep layering for thickness. Just a little messy on the resin side.

 

[Timd32]

So I could not find any of the premade heat shrink terminals, I have lots of terminals....

I made my own home brew... not usually how I do them, but I shunk a small part on a lug then crimped it down, it deformed the heat shrink pretty good, so then back filled it with some water, since I did not silicone the end, it was able to leak out the bottom , I then pressurized the back and it never leaked out the crimp,
Pre-assembly / Assembly

Water Test

I do feel these might apply too much pressure to the rolls of heat shrink and this could not be repeatable over many terminations.

Normal Crimp

I don't think you will need heat shrink ones on the fuse block, I think Wayne was asking if they work with them. I will have to pick some up and try. I am curious.

We also use the IDEAL Stripmasters they are great they are more industrial then the ones you could get like a G&B brand from Homr Depot years ago, those are similar since they technically operate the same way but these are pretty precise.

 

[GCroyle]

Ron,

Mama should be pretty happy with the furniture poly job, looks real nice and I see a distinct Lone Star State theme in the pics.

Our first house furniture in the LR was an aluminum porch glider and a couple of cardboard boxes. And a B&W tube TV with rabbit ears. Cable salesman knocks on door trying to sell cable, he took a look at my TV and he turns around.

Still don't have cable.

Gary

 

[GCroyle]

Timd32,

All looks good, real good. How do you determine if its a crimp that looks good or a crimp that IS good. What's your acid test and how do you adjust the auto crimper?

Gary

 

[Wayne M.]

Tim, the connectors I’m referring to look like this. Butts, rings, spades, etc. I’ll heat these and then do another layer of the regular black stuff. That’ll last a good year or three in the wheelwell of a salt spreader.

This is the best crimper (some call it a staking tool) I have used. It really folds over those flaps, and gives a strong connection, but it also pierces them too.

That’s why I’m eager to try your tool.

 

[Wayne M.]

Ron, your wood finishing looks great!
Is that your compound, the LRE skunkworks?
I’m curious to see how your fuse panel turns out!

 

[DavidC]

I didn't know your wife followed you with a second vehicle to the great white North. At least worst case scenario you have a back up vehicle? I know, not what you want to hear. Hopefully the R&R goes smooth.

Tim, the connectors I’m referring to look like this. Butts, rings, spades, etc. I’ll heat these and then do another layer of the regular black stuff. That’ll last a good year or three in the wheelwell of a salt spreader.

View attachment 115252

This is the best crimper (some call it a staking tool) I have used. It really folds over those flaps, and gives a strong connection, but it also pierces them too.
View attachment 115253
That’s why I’m eager to try your tool.

The back section (towards handles) is for insulated terminals/splices. The front with the nub is for uninsulated terminals/splices. We had an electrician that used the uninsulated section all the time so when working on anything he did gloves were mandatory with no sweat as everything had puncture marks to the metal.

 

[Timd32]

Timd32,

All looks good, real good. How do you determine if its a crimp that looks good or a crimp that IS good. What's your acid test and how do you adjust the auto crimper?

Gary

There is a small cover you pop off and turn the screw adjustment.

Pull test is the easiest way, kinda need a base line to work off of, bench top tester it basically will pull the terminal apart. Sounds more interesting then it is... pretty simple device.

If you want to get crazy you can verify the crimp profile of the lug to mfg spec, that can become very specific depending on the lug and wire strand material and count.
The tool cut sheet has that profile, you can match to the lug.

 

[Timd32]

connectors I’m referring to look like this. Butts, rings, spades, etc. I’ll heat these and then do another layer of the regular black stuff.

Yeah as long as you put the black stuff on first.....been there. I put a little bit of silicone in the ends of the black stuff and it kinda oozes out the ends.

Tool should work for those since the middle part is a typical polyester or vinyl material.

Some of these tools are directional so need to remember to read the directions, on those the color dot needs to face the wire on certain models, do it backwards and they pull off easily.

The ones I have are pretty good either direction, I still do it dot faces the wire, just the way I have always done it.

The back section (towards handles) is for insulated terminals/splices.

Yep.... been there fixing some folks work, nothing wrong with those at all for repairs, have a bunch of those, the non-insulated will cut thru the polyester or vinyl of a insulated lug.

 

[Wiredawg]

friends,

I guess I've done it the old redneck way... use lineman's pliers to strip the wires, use the back scissor part to crush the connector, and then try to pull apart. Years ago, I used to solder and heat shrink on mostly everything... not so good if you need to separate them. But, I'm am OPEN minded redneck, so ordered the nice crushers and the upscale connectors. I have to confess, I installed the 6.5" triax speakers in their enclosures and I used the lineman's pliers, and crushed
'em with a little dielectric grease in them. When I was in US Air Force Telephone Installer Repairman school in 1976, I was even taught how to do a Western Union splice. Yikes... I kept my books from school and may post the instructions for your viewing pleasure.

I need to trim the edges and possibly the depth of the enclosures to fully fit inside the open coveys at the back corners of the cab. Did I say I'm also a backyard engineer?

I also pre-fit the audio power amp under the drivers seat... the end of it is about 6inches from the edge of the front of the seat with the seat all the way back. I'll likely remove the seat to install it. Tomorrow, I'll see if the sub woofer will fit under the passenger seat. Original plan was to hang both on the back wall of the cab, just like I did on my 93 W250. But, now my thinking is to keep as much room behind the seat for some tools in a bag, since this will be the FIRST truck I ever owned that did NOT have a tool box on it.

Anyway, thanks for the education, always happy to LEARN.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Timd32]

Those crimpers and tools are way overkill for small repairs, our panels are 200 to 2000 wires, Nothing wrong with a good set of lineman's. They are all available in job specific anymore very flexible selection.

Just remember not to hit the guy, flip them over for beating things. Use them all the time for all the wrong reasons.

That's why I would have rather loaned you the tools for a few weeks, throw in a hard hat sticker for the tool box and call it a corporate sponsorship.

It's a really neat ride you have there and once past all this small stuff will be great to cruise around in and enjoy. Get on to the fun stuff.

 

[GCroyle]

Some of these tools are directional so need to remember to read the directions, on those the color dot needs to face the wire on certain models, do it backwards and they pull off easily.

The ones I have are pretty good either direction, I still do it dot faces the wire, just the way I have always done it.

Timd32,

That's the missing piece, the fully charged battery, full fuel tank get 'er done answer!

I had no idea these were directional. I just went to the shop and as your pics show paint dot's on one side only and I took a caliper and sure enough bigger gap on insulation side. Mine is a non professional model I don't remember directions and who reads 'em and it does have a star wheel but know the the keys and secret handshake I'll get it right. And as recent as last week I used the auto crimp, looked good, pulled on wire out it slipped. Carefully got it back in grabbed the old hand crimper and easy peasy.

Now why didn't the mfgr etch WIRE SIDE on the wire side?

Can't wait for my next inevitable 12VDC wiring SNAFU.

And I checked my lineman buddy long ago gave me a Klein D2000-9NECR it's Tool Time!

Gary

 

[GCroyle]

When I was in US Air Force Telephone Installer Repairman school in 1976, I was even taught how to do a Western Union splice. Yikes... I kept my books from school and may post the instructions for your viewing pleasure.
View attachment 115259
View attachment 115260

I need to trim the edges and possibly the depth of the enclosures to fully fit inside the open coveys at the back corners of the cab. Did I say I'm also a backyard engineer?

Cheers, Ron

Ron,

Up the pole, run them lines, check the circuits. I wonder how old you have to be to recognize the phone mans handset on your belt?

Gary

 

[DavidC]

I remember those and all the rotary phones. Sure took a while to dial it up with area code. I am 65 if that helps your poll

 

[Wiredawg]

Those crimpers and tools are way overkill for small repairs, our panels are 200 to 2000 wires, Nothing wrong with a good set of lineman's. They are all available in job specific anymore very flexible selection.

Just remember not to hit the guy, flip them over for beating things. Use them all the time for all the wrong reasons.

View attachment 115262


That's why I would have rather loaned you the tools for a few weeks, throw in a hard hat sticker for the tool box and call it a corporate sponsorship.

It's a really neat ride you have there and once past all this small stuff will be great to cruise around in and enjoy. Get on to the fun stuff.

Tim, Sorry I didn't pick up on the business sponsorship deal. I'm happy to do it for that purpose. I was going to take you up on that offer when I realized how many projects I have in queue over next few months. The LRE truck project grew really big.

Anyhoo, I'd be happy to be sponsored on this project.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Timd32]

who reads 'em and it does have a star wheel but know the the keys and secret handshake I'll get it right. And as recent as last week I used the auto crimp, looked good, pulled on wire out it slipped. Carefully got it back in grabbed the old hand crimper and easy peasy.

Yep get it for sure on the directions, that's why it's taking me so long to rebuild my 47RE....oh that's where that spacer goes On those if you are having issues beyond the dot faces the wire, there should be a arrow and maybe a + sign on the frame near the star wheel, but usually don't need too much adjustment, the dies also come out, you can swap in non-insulated dies, not sure if they flip to become left handed tool??? Too much and they break thru the insulation...

 

[jhenderson]

I had the hots for one of timd32 s crimpers until I searched got some prices. I’m sure they’re worth every penny but for the numbers of crimps I do in a year I can’t justify a set. Too bad. I really like them.

 

[GCroyle]

jhenderson,

Not commercial grade but for your consideration.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-wire-crimper/86595/4177068?q=crimping+&pos=8

Same one I bought, $34.00

Gary

 

[jhenderson]

Thanks. Not only is that a reasonable facsimile, it’s in stock at my local store. I think I’m in for a purchase.

 

[GCroyle]

It definitely has wire crimp orientation as Tim showed us, check it.