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How NOT to Winterize Your Camper

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Dutchmen 33' 5er

slide in camper

winter rv'ing

CJ:





Cut 2" foam plugs to fit your roof vent openings (inside the RV). Also, cut that silver backed air-bubble insulation (about 1/2 inch thick material) to fit your windows. Both of these remedies will help a lot in keeping your RV warm during the cold nights.



One problem you will run into is condensation inside the RV. This will cause mold/mildew/rot problems in places you would not expect (such as under the bed , closets and storage areas). Only remedy to this problem is opening up the RV and airing out when warm enough to do this without freezing up the outfit.



One other problem is freezing up your holding tanks and drain lines. A small heater placed under the RV ( if you have enclosed the bottom with straw bales or some such material will eventually thaw the tanks enough to drain. Being extremely careful using a heater under the RV goes without saying.



All this works - been there, done that. Not fun, but is do-able.
 
Originally posted by illflem

cj, building a skirt around the perimeter will go a long way towards keeping it warmer and the pipes from freezing. Do it in true redneck style by using hay bales.



Oh, of course!, but us real rednecks know that hay is completely unsuitable for this task, especially alfalfa (I go through about 80 tons a year, so I'm kinda familiar with the stuff).



First, it rots when it gets wet, the mold growth generates enough heat to start it on fire.



Second, the deer won't leave it alone, your skirt will be gone in a few weeks (not bad if you need some fresh meat though:D



Nah, the thing to use is straw bales. They get wet, but don't mold and get hot, and there's practically zero nutrition or taste, so they don't get eaten.



Thanks for all the suggestions folks. Keep 'em coming! I like the bubble pack idea for the windows. Don't know if the wife will go for it, she's claustrophobic enough as it is. I was thinking about cutting plexiglas panels to make 'em double pane. More costly, but you could still see out.
 
CJ, I was going to add a warning about deer eating your bales but didn't think there were any left in Idaho;) Just get some of that clear plastic storm window sheeting that comes in rolls from the hardware for your windows. Cow pie it on if you don't have any tape.
 
We winterize By blowing out the water heater, lines, and valves then adding a cup or two of the pink stuff to the traps. We do this because we use the trailer more in the winter than summer (anti-social ). The only problem we've had camping in winter was the time our garden hose froze. After that we started draining the hose at night, but now we have heated tanks. Oh, BTW C Shromer if you leave your system dry why wait till spring to un by-pass the water heater? After I have system dry I go ahead and un by-pass the heater, because I KNOW that I WILL FORGET to do it on the next trip out. Getting too old too fast.



Fireman
 
Crazy question?

I just used my new T fitting that goes infront of the pump,

so you can draw anti-freeze from bottle (not holding tank),

but it starts shooting out the water connection fitting

on outside of camper also. I had to get the wife

to hold a rag over it, so not to loose too much while the

rest runs out the faucet.

What did I do wrong!!!!

P. S. Wife had a nice pink "customized" splatter outfit though.
 
BGDUMMY

Sounds like your city water hookup has a bad check in it. You can put a hose thread plug in it temporarily, but it should be replaced.

Larry
 
Thanks Larry!

Oh, I'll go to Home Depot and see what I can find.

I thought something was up, because I've never

heard anyone else complaining.
 
Originally posted by CJ Johansson



Thanks for all the suggestions folks. Keep 'em coming! I like the bubble pack idea for the windows. Don't know if the wife will go for it, she's claustrophobic enough as it is. I was thinking about cutting plexiglas panels to make 'em double pane. More costly, but you could still see out.



This reply is probably a little too late, but I didn't see this topic until today. I'm living in a travel trailer that is not very well insulated. A co-worker suggested that I add "window treatments" on the windows. I got a kit from Home Depot, it's a thin clear plastic film that goes on the window frame to create a double-pane window effect. You put the tape on the window frame, cut the film to the approximate size of the window, and stick it on to form a second window pane. Then you use a hair dryer or heat gun to shrink the film a bit to remove wrinkles. I'd say it was money well spent, my heater doesn't come on as often, now. Also, it could be my imagination, but it seems like the traffic driving past isn't as noisy now. The only drawback is I can't turn and open the window to spit out of it. :rolleyes:

Andy
 
Being in the medical field I've long figured that since the human body is mostly water that anywhere water freezes, don't live. The best way to winterize is to go south.

Actually, the aluminized bubble stuff does pretty good especially on the bedroom windows at night- you can take it off during the day. Closing off the BR and it's heating vent during the day and the living room at night cuts down on the space to be heated.

Frank;)
 
Originally posted by RustyJC

If condensation inside the 5ver becomes a problem, you might try using a portable dehumidifier.



Rusty



I tried to find one of these, and the only thing I found was a thing that was way too big to be practical, it was almost 3' tall X 2' X 2'. I don't have much of a condensation problem in my trailer, I keep the vents cracked open oh-so-slightly and I always run the bathroom vent fan for ten minutes or so after taking a shower. Of course, I'm single and I spend 15 hours a day away from my trailer at school and work.

Does anyone know where to find a portable dehumidifier? Why don't the RV manufacturers include them built-in with the HVAC systems?

Andy
 
Hey Andy, a product called Dries Z Air works pretty good at removing moisture from the air. Also if you use Lexan instead of plexiglass, it won't scratch as easy and is a lot more durable. However it does cost a bit more. Tim
 
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