I want to change out my 5.9 HO 07 Injectors myself and have a few questions

[HerbW]

Hi.
I just bought a set of six injectors locally with just over 70K miles on them for my 2007 5.9 HO. The prior owner had upgraded his to aftermarket ones after a solenoid went open on one of these at the tune of over $4K dollars! I plan on installing his used ones in my truck after replacing the bad solenoid on the one. Other than I probably need new washers and seals any other suggestions about pre-cleaning them? Should I have them tested? They ran great before. I have seen replacement tips for them but if the ones here are good, I don't want to buy for fun. My truck runs good but feels like a miss at times and my injectors are over 165,000 miles old. At least that's what I think. I can't get a hold of original owner to get history. My truck starts easy with no smoking but kinda has a missing feeling. Might be normal. I've had two injector solenoids and the valve cover gasket go belly up this year and limp mode me. At least I'm mechanical and fixed all three deaths! LOL
Thanks, Herb

 

[Bob V]

Herb, I would have them checked myself. Not only a pain doing the job twice, if one is leaking it can cause engine damage. You would probably catch a leaker before any damage happened but do you want to take a chance? I did my first set with the instructions from the TDR. I made up the special tools up in advance and that helped. I have not heard of anyone needing the injector puller, carefully using a pair of channel locks works fine. Most important is having a torque wrench for installing the injectors and cross tubes. There is some debate whether the cross tubes need to be replaced at the same time or not, most do not change them. There is a "edge filter" built into them and there is no way to inspect or clean them. Without knowing the trucks history I would be inclined to change them if it were me. The sealing end of them can also go bad, but that is not common. Also, I have been told that Cummins changed the design of them so it is no longer a good idea to change just one. Cummins NW will probably be the cheapest place to get them. My offer to give you a hand is still open. From your posts I can tell that you are mechanically inclined, I am sure you can do it, but having someone that has done it before is nice to have.
Bob V

 

[HerbW]

Herb, I would have them checked myself. Not only a pain doing the job twice, if one is leaking it can cause engine damage. You would probably catch a leaker before any damage happened but do you want to take a chance? I did my first set with the instructions from the TDR. I made up the special tools up in advance and that helped. I have not heard of anyone needing the injector puller, carefully using a pair of channel locks works fine. Most important is having a torque wrench for installing the injectors and cross tubes. There is some debate whether the cross tubes need to be replaced at the same time or not, most do not change them. There is a "edge filter" built into them and there is no way to inspect or clean them. Without knowing the trucks history I would be inclined to change them if it were me. The sealing end of them can also go bad, but that is not common. Also, I have been told that Cummins changed the design of them so it is no longer a good idea to change just one. Cummins NW will probably be the cheapest place to get them. My offer to give you a hand is still open. From your posts I can tell that you are mechanically inclined, I am sure you can do it, but having someone that has done it before is nice to have.
Bob V

Hi Bob V, I may have to take you up on the change outs. Let me get some new seals and washers first and see how your schedule is. I have a concrete floored pole barn to work in. If you don't have a dry place and it's raining, I might stay home. Does Cummins NW do injector testing also. Does anyone have suggestion? I've thought of replacing the injector tips to start anew. Should I?

 

[HerbW]

Bob V or others, how can I tell if my truck is running good now and leave well enough alone? My lifters when cold are way noisey adjusted with exhausts set at .26 inch. Could my miss be loose lifters?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Exhaust valve clearance on your year should be 0.026" not .26" but I assume you just left out the zero--big difference however.

 

[HerbW]

Oops! I meant .026"! Thanks Joe, I didn't want to mislead others for sure.

 

[Bob V]

I don't know if anyone in the Portland area can test the third Gen injectors, sounds like everyone sends the out to be tested, iirc its about$40 each. I am not sure what you paid for the used ones, but between that, testing, and new tips how far are you from the price of a whole new set? I just put some BBIs from source automotive in a 2006 and the owner and I were impressed with them. I think if I was in your position I would just install what you have and be diligent about checking the oil. I would replace the tubes, for the reasons I stated earlier. Have you registered on Cummins quick serve? You can enter you engine # and look up your own parts if you want. I think all you will need is the copper injector sealing washers and an intake manifold gasket.

 

[AEdelheit]

Isint Dynamite diesel out of Washington area? I believe they can test injectors, and shipping times should be quick.

 

[cerberusiam]

Testing injectors does not alwasy find the problems. A test best just cannot replicate as installed in the truck. It will find some problems not all.

A miss that is felt is usually a bad injector internally. Pintle scored, seat worn, sticky, something that causes it to not operate correctly as the ECU changes duty cycle. A lot of those types of problems are hard to catch on a test bench unless it really obvious. A lot depends on the experience of the test bench operator and that is always a big unkown. A slight variation in delivery that is in spec can and will result in a miss, a slightly rough idle, a wobble in the engine at a certain rpm. The test bench says it is good but as-installed it causes issues. I have had swap out a couple that even though they wer ein spec on a test bench it showed issues on contributin test and introduced an engine wooble and weird idle performance. Just a wor dof warning testing does not always guarantee correct operation, as-installed and functioning is also critical.

There is just no way I would buy used injectors from a source that has already had problems with them, even though it was only one. The 06-07 engines have documented issues with the QC on the injectors, expecting a used set to work is like drawing to an inside straight. If you are keeping the truck, if you rely on it, you are using regularly do yourself a big favor and just get NEW Bosch injectors and have the sourrce balance them as close as possible for fuel delivery specs.

The BMS injectors are new injectors with what I believe is a better injector tip for power and efficiency. These injectors, as a rule, have better QC than production run new. Spend the extra few $$ to have them balanced before shipped.

If the valves are noisy at .026 take them down to .020 or even .018 on the exhaust and .008 on the intake. The only reason that was changed to .026 was the excess heat generated with the late timing and 3rd event. As long as you have an EGT gauge and keep those temps at or under 1300 degrees you should be fine. That MY has the best valves and seats available so it should be fine with the tighter lash.

As always, any opinions here are mine realized thru experinece and contains NO warranty implied or expressed. Too many other things that can impact individual results. Use as appropriate.

 

[CKelley1]

cummins said to use 0.020 instead of 0.026

 

[Bob V]

cummins said to use 0.020 instead of 0.026

??????? the .026 IS a Cummins spec.

 

[HerbW]

For 2006 and 2007 has a decal on the valve cover that boldly says .026". I had adjusted them to .020" and the saw the valve cover decal after the fact while installing it. So I loosened them up again. I might recheck each one with a stethoscope for ticking and redo a tad. I may just buy gaskets, clean them good and quick install these and see how they run. I could do one at a time and start it and observe the results. I have time. Sorta! My 1998 twelve valver never left me in "Limp Mode" in over eleven years! It's brakes sucked big time as did the 47re.

 

[AEdelheit]

My 06 valve cover says .010 int and .020 exh.

 

[HerbW]

While I'm into my truck again, I'm thinking of installing one of those inline fuel filters I just saw on TDR Forum. Any suggestions? I'm looking at the one that goes on the front of the intake manifold or should I go for inline on the frame before the factory one? Seems like the single 2 microns should do the filtering and the original catch moisture. I've never had watery fuel here. Now to get an install gasket kit and go for it!

AEdelheit, Does you engine have the valve cover like mine that's one piece with six bolts and integrated wires in the gasket? Thanks, Herb

 

[seafish]

I think that the GDP 2 mic cylinder head mount kit is one of the best kits out there in terms of fit and finish.

 

[HerbW]

Best deal on GDP SETUP? Thanks

 

[cerberusiam]

If you have any questions do both. The 3 um up front is going to save the damage by solids, extra water filtration is always good. ULSD is hihgly hydroscopic so extra is good. I would do a heated base in the rear though as cold weather can cause problems on exposed filters like that.

The 06 and 07's have the injector wiring integrated into the VC gasket, earlier trucks had the hanrnesses in the VC spacer.