Looking to buy, I need help!!

[lilwilbur]

Hello all, first let me say that this forum is extremly informative and more over very professional, something that a lot of the others don't have.



As you can see by my sig. that I am looking to by a CTD, you can also see that I am a current diesel owner. I love the Ford and have always been a Ford person. I am not looking to replace my current F250 but rather replace my wifes car. My wife informed me that she is tired of the room and power of the car, soooo I offered to let her take my truck and replace hers with another truck of my choice. This will be the truck that I can build to race at the track or spank unsuspecting mustangs and vettes on the street. Something I can't do now because the Ford is our family vehicle.



I have been investigating a little about the CTD and learned a little about the some of the high and low points. My father is also a CTD owner (01 QC 4x4) that he has Banks-ed with all there stuff. I on the other hand want to go a little more extreme.



Here are my questions: Which year is the most mod friendly? I am on a budget (aren't we all) so I need to keep the truck purchase at around 20K. It also needs to be a reliable everyday driver that will see about 30k miles a year. I want an auto and don't care to spend cash to upgrade there. I also need a 4x4 and cab style is not a big deal.



So tell me guys, am I barking up the wrong tree with the CTD thing on my brain, or should I stick with what I know and but another Ford?



Any help would be appreciated.



Will

 

[bmoeller]

Welcome to the TDR!



As far as auto trucks, if you want to really have fun bombing, you WILL need to upgrade. Having said that, and you don't want to upgrade the transmission after buying the truck, I would suggest looking in the TDR classifides, if you haven't already. If you find the right one, some of the modifications will have already been done.



Another possibility would be, to do a Cummins conversion into the/a Ford.



http://www.fordcummins.com/



With your 20k or so top, my guess is you would be looking for a later 2nd. gen truck w/a 12v. or early 24v. engine.



The electronic power boxes are neat, but you can turn the 12v. engines up cheaper. Plus you won't have to worry about the lift pump or VP-44 on the 24v. , as a fair amount have had problems with them. One advantage with the 24v. would be with some of the boxes or programmers, you have the option (as with a flip chip in the Ford) to change your hp. on the fly.

 

[ndurbin]

i'd say a 24v so you can use the boxes and programmers. that way when your not on the track or in rice killing mode you can set it back to stock or a milder setting for daily driving. might as well figure on having a spare VP44 around for when it does go. still have to do the transmission upgrades either way (auto or man. ) stock clutch praly wont stand the power you want to put to the ground. the auto isn't even an option, ya haveta do it.

 

[Deezul1]

12 Valve for easy cheap upgrades, go with 96,97 or 98 12valve. If you must have an auto then you will be limited on HP upgrades without modifying the trans. The 5 speed 12 valves mentioned above have the most stock HP so require the least mods to make more hp. You will need a HiPo clutch in a 5 speed after about 325HP. The trans is super strong with the 5th gear nut being the only weakness. Many TDR members are well above the 500HP mark and the 5 sp is holding up well. As far as the ability to be a high HP or stock HP engine offered by the boxes, with the 12 V you just dont step on it so hard. No one would ever know there is a lot of power added because it sounds and drives like a stocker till you stomp it. I get 17-18mpg around town and 21-22 highway not towing and it weighs 7800lbs with my tools in it all the time.

 

[C. Harlan]

No 5th gear nut problems here anymore! Had enough with that, and got me a 6'er! Best move I have made so far! I would recommend a 1998. 4 6BT motor (12v). If you want to turn it up, you can be happy with a 11 plate. If you want to go way out there, get a 10 plate, a SBC CON FE clutch, 191 delivery valves, intake and exhaust, get in, sit down, shut up and hang on! I am making over 400 hp with stock injectors that came with the truck 194,000 miles back! how 'bout that?!



Why the 1998. 4? It is the first year of the rounded dash, quad cab, heated mirrors, and other goodies too. . Just thought you might like the extra creature comforts!



-Chris-

 

[lilwilbur]

Hmmmm, it sounds like the 12v is the way to go for power. What about the KDP? Is that a big deal to eliminate before it's a problem? I have read a couple of things about it but am still a little unclear.



What is a 10 / 11 plate, are these items related to fuel delivery?



How extreme can I go with these engines and still remain reliable, and not smoke tremulously? And what about injectors, I see a lot of them out there but I am not sure what's the latest and greatest, and will the 12v and 24v injectors interchange?



What are 191 delivery valves? Are these larger than the stock 12v's. And BTW are the differences between a 12v and a 24v other that 12 more?



Are the 12v autos the same as the 24v?



As for the 24v, what is a VP44 and are they hard to replace as well as costly?



Now what about spank-a-bility. What would I have to do to a CTD to eat a PSD that is chipped, gassed, etc. Speaking of which can I run propane and NO2? I love my propane not for the power but the fuel economy. I have a great source for it and would like to continue using it.



Guys I am sorry for the questions, but I have a lot of them, please bear with me.



Will

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by lilwilbur

Hmmmm, it sounds like the 12v is the way to go for power. What about the KDP? Is that a big deal to eliminate before it's a problem? I have read a couple of things about it but am still a little unclear. http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/dowel_pin.htm



What is a 10 / 11 plate, are these items related to fuel delivery? Yes, read this page- https://secure.tstproducts.com/acatalog/TST_s_Products_Power_Enhancements_9.html Can see plate bolted on the top. #ad




How extreme can I go with these engines and still remain reliable, and not smoke tremulously? And what about injectors, I see a lot of them out there but I am not sure what's the latest and greatest, and will the 12v and 24v injectors interchange? No, the injectors from the 12v and the 24v are not interchageable.



And BTW are the differences between a 12v and a 24v other that 12 more? 12valve engines use the P7100 fuel injection pump (mechanical inline), mech. lift pump, 12 valves in head, different timing/valve covers plus a few other things. 24v engines has 24 valves, VP44 f. inj. pump (distributor type, electronic controls and related sensors), electric lift pump.

Are the 12v autos the same as the 24v? '96-'02 have the 47RE



As for the 24v, what is a VP44 and are they hard to replace as well as costly?



Now what about spank-a-bility. What would I have to do to a CTD to eat a PSD that is chipped, gassed, etc. Speaking of which can I run propane and NO2? I love my propane not for the power but the fuel economy. I have a great source for it and would like to continue using it.



http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm



Guys I am sorry for the questions, but I have a lot of them, please bear with me.



Will

 

[Trizae]

if you want an auto,,, i would try to find a 94 or 95 with the 47RH transmission,,,,, you can put the torque converter on a toggle switch,,,,,,,,,,,,, start rolling in 1st, flip the switch and the converter stays lock,,,,,, only recommend that for buring rice/gas burners,,,,, the 12v is the way to go,,,,,, an expernced bomber (which i am not,,,,, but working on it ) can get 400 RWHP out of a 12v with out spending a dollar on parts,,,,, you also have adjustable smoke control on the 12v,,,,, i'm not sure if the 24v has adjustable smoke control or not



Trey

 

[WadePatton]

Keep reading, don't rule the 24's out. They're especially nice if you don't like a lot of monkeying around under the hood. It's very difficult to find a really clean 12v for sale these days. I found one the other day--96 with 125k went for 14,700. It was the nicest one I'd seen in while.



So I have around $2500 in speed/support mods in my 24 to gain 205HP over stock. 1500 (turbo) more should put me close to 475/1000 at the wheels or 265 ponies up from stock. Whoops, I forgot the clutch upgrade-upgrade, there's an additional 500. Dang, don't let me add that up again!



See full details under my profile, but that's for a daily driver 24v that ROCKS and gets 19-20 mpg every day.



I'm just starting out BOMBing a 12v and yes, it is cheaper until you get to the point (around 500hp) where the head needs to be ported (24's don't need it) and you need a camshaft and exhaust manifold and real big turbo or twins. Things start evening out between the costs of the 12 vs. 24.



The 12v has the KDP (labor not $ intensive, unless it falls out before you fix it) and the 5th gear nut to fix. 24's have a lift pump and sometimes injection pump issues. Knock on wood and pass the fuel additive, my VP is happy at 93,000 and the LP#2 has been in for nearly 40,000 miles.



Either one with auto, MUST upgrade transmission to the tune of 3000k or so. Clutches run less than half that. Both require similar labor.



Read read read more on here. Don't get in a hurry if you're looking for a good clean 12v.



Try out the "configurator" at the Diesel Dynamics website for a general idea of what mods go good together.



Come up to Middle for a test ride. I'm 18 miles north of Manchester- exit 110 or so. I'll tell you everything I know--won't take long.