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New batteries dead after truck sitting a week

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Hey guys, I went to start my truck yesterday and the batteries were down to where all I got was a click from the starter solenoid. It's an 03 with new Excide Edge AGM batteries. After I put the charger on it for a half hour, I started it and the alternator seemed to be charging (per my Fluke voltmeter), but got very hot in about 5 minutes. Too hot to touch. I had to move the truck, then shut it off and put the charger on it all night. This morning the batteries were fully charged. I started the truck and it was charging 14. 4 volts at idle with no additional load.



I know I must have something putting a small drain on the batteries, but I'm wondering if the diodes were going bad in the alternator would they allow the batteries to discharge back through it? I check the voltage after I shut the truck down and will check it again when I get home from work tomorrow.



Just fishing for ideas.



Thanks,

Blake
 
You could simply have a bad battery. Seen it before. Isolate them and test after sitting for a couple days. If one is bad it will kill the other one.
 
Well I checked the voltage at my batteries when I got home today. No loss. Maybe it is just a parasitic draw? I did notice the radio face was a little warm, and I've had some trouble with the CD player not ejecting for a while. Still searching...
 
One other possibility... . many batteries sitting on the shelf are not fully charged you may have been the lucky guy that bought some discharged batteries
 
1) Disconnect your underhood light

2) Disconnect one side of one of your batteries.

3) Hook up a test light between the battery post and clamp

4) Start pulling fuses one at a time till the test light dims- you will then know which circuit the draw is in.

I am not sure if you should do this on the + or the - side of the battery, or if it matters. Also- pull the fuse and then replace before moving to the next. Happy hunting!
 
Some of the Fluke meters will measure 10 amps. If yours will then disconnected one of the batteries and put your fluke in series with the second battery's disconnected + side. Then start pulling fuses. This way you can see what the actual draw is. Just sitting I think you'll see less than 100 MA or so of draw as normal. That is the radio memory and possibly the ECU standby. If you're seeing anything over ~500MA (1/2 amp) then you have a problem. Remember to disconnect the under hood light and remember the dome lights can draw a lot.
 
This may seem obvious, but can be easily overlooked. A phone charger left plugged to the accessory plug in can drain the batteries it that amount of time.
Don't ask me how I know this :eek:
 
Thanks guys! I'll do this isolation procedure and see if I can pinpoint the draw. Not sure how many amps my Fluke can measure, but I'm kinda leary of frying it if I put too much current through it. I did that to one of my grandfather's ammeters when I was a kid and ruined it.

I checked the voltage (with both batteries still hooked up) today after work and they dropped about a tenth of a volt, though I am wondering if that could be due to it being colder out today.

After washing the bottom of the truck thoroughly to get all the mud, etc off so I can get it sprayed with Fluid Film next week, I started it and left it idle for a while to dry the engine, exhaust, etc off. It spun right over and started as if the batteries were fully charged. Note - it had been sitting two days without running.
 
FWIW - I have an '06 bought at the end of that year, truck has just under 50K miles and is only a weekend driver. I am just now replacing the batteries for the first time.
 
I just replaced my batteries for the first time this spring. 190,000 miles on an 03 that I bought ten years ago this May.

I have not had any more battery drainage problems since my earlier post on this subject. Perhaps I mis-judged the length of time the truck sat? I'm still gonna do a load draw check though.
 
Just a thought, I had my '98 24V sitting at the mechanics over the winter while he did an engine swap and when he finished the job the truck started right up without chg the batteries. I have not had any problems with batteries going down in a two or three week time if the batteries are good in the first place. There is something wrong or a drain that you have not accounted for.
DClark
 
Another thing to look at is the ignition switch. Mine is wearing and the key can be pulled out in the accessory and the run position. Guy borrowed my truck and put the key in the acc instead of off position not knowing this (I didn't either) and locked the truck up. After several days of non use my batteries were dead. Took me a long time to connect this all together.
 
Thanks guys! I'll do this isolation procedure and see if I can pinpoint the draw. Not sure how many amps my Fluke can measure, but I'm kinda leary of frying it if I put too much current through it. I did that to one of my grandfather's ammeters when I was a kid and ruined it.



I checked the voltage (with both batteries still hooked up) today after work and they dropped about a tenth of a volt, though I am wondering if that could be due to it being colder out today.



After washing the bottom of the truck thoroughly to get all the mud, etc off so I can get it sprayed with Fluid Film next week, I started it and left it idle for a while to dry the engine, exhaust, etc off. It spun right over and started as if the batteries were fully charged. Note - it had been sitting two days without running.



Hey Blakers, are you taking your vehicle in to be sprayed down with Fluid Film or doing it yourself? I have been doing my truck for a few years now, it is pretty good stuff but you have to keep up on it. I'm taking the wifes Mountaineer in a few weeks to be treated with Krown. I found a place in Erie, theres also a place in West Middle Sex I haven't decided which place I'm going to yet. If I like the performance of the Krown, I may have my truck done with it next year.
 
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