new owner question

[on the road]

Hi all

I just got a '24 6.7 one ton. Nice truck. Had a '98 5.9 I put 250K miles on, so I know a little.

Seems to me that car manufacturers come out with maintenance schedules that will keep a car running until the warranty expires. Then there are folks like me (and a lot of you) that do maintenance a lot more often.

Does anybody know why the engines call for a 5-40 or 10-30 oil. Just trying to understand why a 15-40 is not cool. They have the hydraulic lifters, from what I understand, that can get gunked up. Let's say we use a top quality synthetic (no oil brand wars, please). A 5-40 is going to thicken to 40 as it gets hot, so it's not like the lifters are not going to see a thicker oil.

I contacted Cummins and they said call the Ram folks. We know what they are not going to say anything useful. So I wonder if some technically inclined folks can shed some light. I've seen the TSB and have 5-40 ready to go, but wondering what's the rest of story.

Second question is on the coolant. I ran the cat (red) fluid in my 98, changes every 2 or 3 years, replacing 4 gallons of the 6 (last 2, could not drain it). I cannot see a coolant lasting 10 years / 150K miles. Any thoughts on a realistic change schedule ?

And is there any harm in going to the cat coolant (assuming a complete flush first) ? Or stick with the OAT/HOAT formulation ?

thanks !
steve

 

[Topzide]

Congratulations on the new truck! Most of the issues with the oil and coolant relate to the emission components on the engine. This is a way different setup then your '98 was. Lifter and the tighter clearances are the driving factor for the oil recommendation. The coolant has to due with exhaust cooler and emissions. You can feel free to change things out sooner than the schedule if you wish. The oil can go the 15K/1yr time frame with no issues. The coolant can go the 150K/10yr also. Your truck, your money and time. Just keep records for warranty and enjoy the seat time!

 

[Diesel85]

Congrats on the new truck and welcome to the TDR!

@Topzide gave some great advice.

You will hear folks opinions on maintenance and then you can judge as to what is best for your truck. Each person who owns these trucks uses them for opposite ends of the spectrum (daily driving (zero towing) to heavy duty (100% towing) circumstances, or somewhere in the middle (most common)).

My personal experience on running a 2020 Cummins standard output is running 10W30 has not hurt the engine. It has 200k on it. The coolant got changed out at a little over 100k and is going to be changed out again this spring at where ever past its 200k mark will be. Zero issues with the truck and in fact, I've never seen or run anything so problem free. Especially when it has hauled trailers about 70% of it's lifetime. The company I work for has all three brands, and out of the 4 RAM Cummins trucks the company has, only one newer one (2022 that had lifter failure thus damaging the camshaft/eating the camshaft) has had legit issues. We got 5 Ford Powerstrokes and they've had some hiccups, but nothing that has left any of my coworkers on the side of the road. We only have 2 GM Duramax trucks and they seem to have random electrical problems.

One thing I can say, out of the trucks the company owns, none of them have ever had emissions problems recently. The oldest truck in the fleet is a 2017 F-350 that has over 400k on it. When 2007 hit with the non-DEF trucks, we had some fun experiences to the point the boss tried a few gasoline trucks, which was a huge mistake for fuel costs.

Other than tires, brakes, wheel bearing/hubs, suspension components, and regular maintenance items, I can't knock any one of them. They all have quirks. But I can say the RAMs are less problematic.

Going back to your question about the 5W40 versus the 10W30, has to do with the climate you live in. If you live in a cold climate, you might want to consider 5W40. However, the dealer that services the company trucks uses 10W30 all year around and we get down as low as -20F. The 4 RAM trucks have accumulated well over a million miles combined, they all use 10W30 and get serviced at the same dealer. So there's some statistics. While a small grouping, it's something.

Then on to the 15W40. That has to do with the hydraulic lifters. That oil is just too thick (especially at a cold start) for the lifters to properly actuate. What will happen is they could get stuck with too much oil pressure inside the lifter and cause it to be extremely rough on the camshaft thus chewing it up/scoring it badly. After seeing what a lifter failure did on that 2022 when I got to look at the camshaft and touch it, the result is apparent when at least one decides to get stuck. In the case of the 2022, one lifter actuator got stuck thus eating a lobe on the camshaft.

If I were to own one personally, I'd run 10W30 at once per year (15k or less) and do coolant flushes ever 3-4 years. Change the drive line fluids (front diff, transfer case, rear diff) every 50k. If I had the AISIN, change the fluid and filter every 30k. Change the fuel filters every year.

Currently I own a 2020 EcoD, and I bought it used at 50k, and I went through and changed all the fluids a few weeks after buying it. Been a great truck, but not as problem free as the Cummins truck I daily drive for work, as I had to have the PCM replaced a few months ago. No fault on the engine, but still something that needed to be done that was outside "normal" maintenance routines.

All in all, these here RAM diesel trucks are great trucks and you can find them for a decent price right now. If it wasn't for me buying a set of pads/rotors, new tires (new snows and highway tires), and the fact I still got 2 years of warranty left for the EcoD, I'd consider trading it next year for a leftover 2024 Cummins 3500 HO AISIN, but eh, that's being financially irresponsible.

Also, quit worrying and enjoy your new truck! Enjoy the clatter of the diesel. I can't get enough of that clatter and turbo spool on both the Cummins and the VM EcoD. Perks of driving them.

 

[Jim W]

Hi and welcome to the forum!

If you haven't read any of the articles that are listed on the LH side of the home page I would take the time. Especially the Buyers guide for the last couple of years. I believe this may explain the changes over time to the 6.7L Cummins engine and other features of the new trucks.

Also, I review the Perfect Collection Vol 11 as this pertains to the new 6.7L Cummins and trucks.
There is a lot of information to be gained by reading these articles that are listed.

Jim

 

[sag2]

The reason 15-40 isn't recommended is because of emissions (actually fuel economy) and the move to hydraulic lifters and different bearing clearance. It's your truck and you can run 15-40 if you choose. With the few lifter failures out there I would not want to be the guy that was asked for receipts after a failure and can only show them the wrong oil was used.
Good advice above, run 5w-40 if you are in cold climate, or 10w-40 otherwise. It is now available virtually anywhere, so availability isn't the issue it was back in 2019.
I have used 5w-40 in my 18 since new even though it never sees cold weather. I change it just under the 15k recommendation. So far oil analysis shows things are just fine.
As for the coolant, I changed my 10 year at 4 years, just because coolant is cheap, and why not. I used Mopar again, but just as you mentioned, change to the CAT coolant if you want, just be sure to flush all the old Mopar out just in case they are not compatible.

 

[Topzide]

You'll have to be a TDR member to read the buyer's guide on the side bar that @Jim W mentions. Would be well worth the membership to have access to all the benefits it has to offer.

On another note, please fill in your signature line. This way, when you post something asking for assistance, everyone will know what your truck is without having to ask. Also makes posting easier on your behalf, without having to type it in.

Just enjoy that truck, and if you have questions, please post them up for help. Someone has "been there done that", to be able to offer assistance.

 

[AH64ID]

As stated the 15w-40 is with cold oil, so it’s the 15w that’s the issue not the 40.

5w-40 provides the best hot and cold weather performance. 10w-30 might get slightly better fuel economy.

 

[on the road]

All ...

many thanks for the info ... and clear answers the questions ...

in the early 2000's I was active on the board. remember the heated debates over whose 4" exhaust was better. folks went CRAZY with those engines. I remember a guy running a DRW under 9 seconds on the drag strip.

I am based out of Dallas ... had to drive 62 miles out of town to get a SRW. Only one dealer had any SRW's within 100 plus miles. DRW's, maybe 300 plus to pick from and $5K less to boot. Houston did not look much better.

the '98.5 had lots of room under the hood. the '13 has some free space, but not a lot. a first glance says the '24 has very little free space. will make maintenance a bit more of an issue.

the local dealer mechanic says no need to prime the truck when I change the fuel filters. just press the start button. wow ...

I was seeing a TDR article that got into fake parts in fleetguard filter boxes. I got filters from Geno's and it looks like I will want to get more from them. should not be surprised.

overall, fit and finish so far have been quite positive. seems like a well built truck. it shifts real solid - no need for a shift kit the '13 required.

not sure if I can take it to the lanes where the 18 wheelers fill up. that big inlet was nice.

It rides taller than my '13 2500 hemi (that it's replacing). the receiver hitch sits 2.5 inches taller. truck seems wider.

the lack of noise, that's a bummer. My 98.5, you could hear it and it had a presence. people heard it and looked around. the '24, it's only a little louder. cut the muffler out !!

while it's a 1 ton SRW, it rides pretty well. Add a ton of stuff (weight) in the back, and it will ride really nice. it has 20 plus years of safety enhancements on the '98.5 and 11 on the '13'.

I did get the extended warranty thru dodge. Normally do not, but with an engine at $25K, transmission at $7K, repairs are not cheap. to that end, my (few) mods will need to be done in mind with that. 150K miles of coverage and no time limit.

No chip, that's an automatic cancelation. I am told a deeper transmission pan and a rear diff cover are good, and I will be doing those. No need for an oil cooler, like the '13 (gasser) has.

It seems that Washington wants car manufacturers to do dumb things to save fuel (auto shutoff at stops and 0-20 oil) and pushes longer (not healthy) maintenance windows.

performance has been quite good. I've got a '16 mini cooper JCW that will fly, so I have to temper my expectations. on the road, with trailer in tow, that's when the 6.7 will shine. gonna miss the Mini ...

thanks again ...
steve

 

[Signal73]

It’s a good idea to prime the filter housings by putting the truck to the run position about 5 times without stepping on the brake to start. You will hear the pump run and cancel after the times up. It will start to bog when the housings are primed.

 

[AH64ID]

the local dealer mechanic says no need to prime the truck when I change the fuel filters. just press the start button. wow ...

Not quite. You still need to run the fuel pump a few times without starting to fill the filters. Just turn the truck to run without pressing the brake, do that 2-3 times and you should fire right up.

It rides taller than my '13 2500 hemi (that it's replacing). the receiver hitch sits 2.5 inches taller. truck seems wider.

Truck has the same overall dimensions as your ‘13. The ‘13 has the Gen 4.0 suspension and frame, but I didn’t think they were that much lower. The current 2500 sits even taller than your 3500.

not sure if I can take it to the lanes where the 18 wheelers fill up. that big inlet was nice.

I’ve fueled both my gen 4.5 trucks at truck stops multiple times. I try to only buy DEF at the pump and many of the DEF pumps are in the truck lanes.

the lack of noise, that's a bummer. My 98.5, you could hear it and it had a presence. people heard it and looked around. the '24, it's only a little louder. cut the muffler out !!

No muffler to cut out on these trucks, the quiet is from the emissions stuff.

No chip, that's an automatic cancelation. I am told a deeper transmission pan and a rear diff cover are good, and I will be doing those. No need for an oil cooler, like the '13 (gasser) has.

You didn’t say what transmission you got, but nothing is needed for the transmission or rear axle. By all means you can add things if you want to, but you will likely never see a return on your investment. You will likely see a slight decrease in fuel economy from added diff and trans fluid, if that’s matters to you.

Second question is on the coolant. I ran the cat (red) fluid in my 98, changes every 2 or 3 years, replacing 4 gallons of the 6 (last 2, could not drain it). I cannot see a coolant lasting 10 years / 150K miles. Any thoughts on a realistic change schedule ?

And is there any harm in going to the cat coolant (assuming a complete flush first) ? Or stick with the OAT/HOAT formulation ?

The 10 years/150K miles is realistic, and has been the norm for a long time. It’s not 1998 anymore and both the engine and fluids have come a long ways. Not much that was relevant for maintenance on the ‘98.5 will provide a direct correlation to the ‘24.

Even the Cat coolant says to run it a lot longer than 2-3 years. It was the first extended life coolant I recall being around.

The OEM OAT (definitely don’t confuse this with HOAT) is a good coolant than has no issues running the advertised life.

Don’t get too wrapped up around shortening the OEM intervals on these trucks. Pay attention to both the miles and months at which maintenance should be performed and your truck won’t have any maintenance related issues, nor will your 3rd party warranty be able to deny anything for maintenance.

 

[sag2]

All ...



I did get the extended warranty thru dodge. Normally do not, but with an engine at $25K, transmission at $7K, repairs are not cheap. to that end, my (few) mods will need to be done in mind with that. 150K miles of coverage and no time limit.

steve

You might have purchased the extended warranty from the dealer, but it is not a Mopar factory contract. If you want to keep the aftermarket contract read the fine print very carefully. Mopar is the only way to go, no hassles and it is honored at any dealer. Online sellers have very competative pricing.

 

[Grumpy8811]

either 10w30 or 5w40 will do in the 2019+ trucks as long as it is Ck4 rated and carries the CES 20086 certification

FWIW the price point between the 2 grades is negligible at the moment, 10w30's generally being dinosaur oil and the 5w40's generally being labelled as synthetics.

some people prefer DEF at the pump, but realistically that stuff also comes in boxes that are available just about any retailer from the local 7/11 to any Walmart to the farm equipment dealer as well as the auto parts.

 

[AH64ID]

View attachment 142561

either 10w30 or 5w40 will do in the 2019+ trucks as long as it is Ck4 rated and carries the CES 20086 certification

FWIW the price point between the 2 grades is negligible at the moment, 10w30's generally being dinosaur oil and the 5w40's generally being labelled as synthetics.

some people prefer DEF at the pump, but realistically that stuff also comes in boxes that are available just about any retailer from the local 7/11 to any Walmart to the farm equipment dealer as well as the auto parts.

All 5w-40 diesel oil is synthetic. Generally 10w-30 diesel oil is a synthetic blend (or full synthetic), and I can’t think of any that aren’t off the top of my head.