New Recall V06

[Cummins12V98]

Just looked at mine, still tight after 50k or so after alignment.

 

[JPM]

Only if the measurements of the drag link are not to specification.

what component are they measuring?

 

[SnoKing]

what component are they measuring?

Torque of the jam nuts.

 

[AChaulk]

My truck has this and IT IS LOOSE!!! The inboard lock nut is just spinning back and forth right now.

I noticed this jam nut loose back in August of 2018, when I was trouble shooting a knock under my truck. (Turned out to be a rock stuck in the right trailing swingarm.) After removing the rock, I got out my biggest wrenches and torqued the (BIG! like 1.5 inch)drag-link nut back down as best I could without knowing the torque value.

Got the notice in the mail today, so I looked under the truck again. Sure enough, the inboard lock nut is loose and spinning again.

I call my local dealership and they don't answer. I leave a message and a kid calls me back about an hour later. He tells me that the part will come in the mail and they will call me. I reminded him, as I did in the message I left, that the nut is loose and spinning around right now and I'm wanting to know what to do about it. He has no answer. I then ask if he can at least give me the specific torque value for that nut and I'll try to tighten it properly myself. He put me on hold and comes back with a value of 15 foot pounds. WHAT?!! I say no-way and that it should be over 100 foot pounds at least. He fumbles around with his computer and says that it 109 foot pounds. That sounds better but I still don't know for sure if the kid is looking at the right part.

I'm now going to try to contact someone that can definitively give me an answer if I can safely take my truck and 33 foot 5th wheel out on a 1000 mile trip next week. Good luck to me on finding someone who really knows the right answer.

FYI

 

[JPM]

Torque of the jam nuts.

OK Just to be clear, If loose nut(s) are found, is the procedure torque the loose nuts ,they move but then tighten to the required torque revealing no need for new parts, just welding?

Or is the procedure if the nuts are found to be tight , using a torque wrench with no movement revealing that no new parts are needed only welding?

Or is it torqueing the nuts , they do not torque to the required torque , but strip , needing new parts?

I asked the question to whoever is answering the phone at my local dealers service department , they did not know , just like ACaulk

 

[SnoKing]

If it does not torque to spec then the threads have been damaged and they will replace parts. In both cases I believe they will weld the nuts. So the question is how will the steering wheel be recentered in the future?

 

[JPM]

If it does not torque to spec then the threads have been damaged and they will replace parts. In both cases I believe they will weld the nuts. So the question is how will the steering wheel be recentered in the future?

Seems like a really half ashed solution if you ask me. They have been building trucks for what ,100 yrs for a fix like that?

 

[sag2]

The proper torque is 109 ft/lbs. It requires a Snap-On SCOM41 41mm crows foot ($75.00) that was sent to every dealer.

Loose does not automatically mean it gets replaced. There is a specific process to check if it will hold the proper torque. If it doesn't they measure the nut and drag link threads and replace if necessary. The new drag link has a different adjustment nut and does not require welding.

I believe they are still working on a procedure for adjustment after the nuts are welded. It would make sense that they can't replace every drag link now because of part availability.

I believe this is still evolving as dealers start to perform the repairs. Also, any drag links needed have to be approved and ordered by STAR, so that will stop everyone from coming in and wanting it replaced just because.

 

[AChaulk]

The proper torque is 109 ft/lbs. It requires a Snap-On SCOM41 41mm crows foot ($75.00) that was sent to every dealer.

Loose does not automatically mean it gets replaced. There is a specific process to check if it will hold the proper torque. If it doesn't they measure the nut and drag link threads and replace if necessary. The new drag link has a different adjustment nut and does not require welding.

I believe they are still working on a procedure for adjustment after the nuts are welded. It would make sense that they can't replace every drag link now because of part availability.

I believe this is still evolving as dealers start to perform the repairs. Also, any drag links needed have to be approved and ordered by STAR, so that will stop everyone from coming in and wanting it replaced just because.

So assuming that they have to look at the threads, I'd guess that they have to back off the adjustment nut all the way to check it. So I assume that they will have to do a new wheel alignment at that point, whether they replace the part or not...right?

My truck is scheduled to be 'inspected' on Friday and I want to know as much as possible before going in. Thanks!

 

[Devil Black Diesel]

The proper torque is 109 ft/lbs. It requires a Snap-On SCOM41 41mm crows foot ($75.00) that was sent to every dealer.

Loose does not automatically mean it gets replaced. There is a specific process to check if it will hold the proper torque. If it doesn't they measure the nut and drag link threads and replace if necessary. The new drag link has a different adjustment nut and does not require welding.

I believe they are still working on a procedure for adjustment after the nuts are welded. It would make sense that they can't replace every drag link now because of part availability.

I believe this is still evolving as dealers start to perform the repairs. Also, any drag links needed have to be approved and ordered by STAR, so that will stop everyone from coming in and wanting it replaced just because.

So what is the actual problem with the existing drag link? Is it that the threads are too weak to handle the torque required to keep the nuts tight and they strip when you try to tighten them? If it's not the threads, why can't they figure out an easier solution to prevent the nuts from loosening like a cotter pin, lock washer, or some other device that won't allow the nuts to spin?

 

[SnoKing]

Here is the service bulletin. SnoKing

 

[nukegm]

i have appointment monday for oil leak and 2 recalls on my 2018 2500. including this one posted here. will report the results next week. 17,000 miles. 1 year 3 months old. been in shop already 29 days ( hydraulic clutch multiple fails ). cheers comrades!

 

[AChaulk]

Here is the service bulletin. SnoKing

That answers a lot of questions. Super helpful, thanks!

 

[AChaulk]

Here is the service bulletin. SnoKing

On page #9 of the inspection procedure, it says the following:

5. Using Vernier Calipers, measure and record the major outside diameter of the outer drag link threads 5mm (0.20 in. - approx 3 threads) from paint mark denoting end of turnbuckle (Figure 6). Be sure to measure using the flats on the calipers, do not measure inside the thread pitch (Figure 6).
NOTE: Measure the outside diameter at two different locations (90° from each other). Use the smallest measurement.
Record smallest outer thread diameter (Step 5): ____________________
Record largest inner thread diameter (Step 4): ____________________
Subtract (smallest outer – largest inner): ____________________
 If the result of the subtraction is 0.6 mm (0.024 in) or less, continue to section D. Replace Drag Link Assembly.
 If the result of the subtraction is greater than 0.6 mm (0.024 in), assemble the turnbuckle and continue to section C. Weld Turnbuckle Jam Nuts.

I'm hopefully wrong in this but... This seems backwards. I would think that if the subtraction difference is GREATER than .024 in then there is more slop between the inner and outer threads and warrant replacement. Anyone agree?

 

[SnoKing]

On page #9 of the inspection procedure, it says the following:

5. Using Vernier Calipers, measure and record the major outside diameter of the outer drag link threads 5mm (0.20 in. - approx 3 threads) from paint mark denoting end of turnbuckle (Figure 6). Be sure to measure using the flats on the calipers, do not measure inside the thread pitch (Figure 6).
NOTE: Measure the outside diameter at two different locations (90° from each other). Use the smallest measurement.
Record smallest outer thread diameter (Step 5): ____________________
Record largest inner thread diameter (Step 4): ____________________
Subtract (smallest outer – largest inner): ____________________
 If the result of the subtraction is 0.6 mm (0.024 in) or less, continue to section D. Replace Drag Link Assembly.
 If the result of the subtraction is greater than 0.6 mm (0.024 in), assemble the turnbuckle and continue to section C. Weld Turnbuckle Jam Nuts.

I'm hopefully wrong in this but... This seems backwards. I would think that if the subtraction difference is GREATER than .024 in then there is more slop between the inner and outer threads and warrant replacement. Anyone agree?

The difference is the depth of thread overlap/engagement, what ever you want to call it. So lower number indicates less overlap/engagement of the threaded connection. Attached are a couple pictures of a measurement on a smaller nut and bolt off my work bench. Difference is 1.22. I am actual surprised that they were not looking got s higher number. SnoKing

 

[JPM]

Here is the service bulletin. SnoKing

thanks for the link, super helpful , so much more than the dealer

 

[AChaulk]

View attachment 112058 View attachment 112059

The difference is the depth of thread overlap/engagement, what ever you want to call it. So lower number indicates less overlap/engagement of the threaded connection. Attached are a couple pictures of a measurement on a smaller nut and bolt off my work bench. Difference is 1.22. I am actual surprised that they were not looking got s higher number. SnoKing

Okay, now I get it. Thanks SnoKing.

 

[JPM]

So what is the actual problem with the existing drag link? Is it that the threads are too weak to handle the torque required to keep the nuts tight and they strip when you try to tighten them? If it's not the threads, why can't they figure out an easier solution to prevent the nuts from loosening like a cotter pin, lock washer, or some other device that won't allow the nuts to spin?

this might work

https://www.spieth-maschinenelemente.de/en/products/locknuts/msr/

 

[AChaulk]

So assuming that they have to look at the threads, I'd guess that they have to back off the adjustment nut all the way to check it. So I assume that they will have to do a new wheel alignment at that point, whether they replace the part or not...right?

My truck is scheduled to be 'inspected' on Friday and I want to know as much as possible before going in. Thanks!

My mistake on this question. The problem locking nut and turnbuckle are on the pitman arm link to the right steering knuckle. So the only thing affected would be the steering wheel position and not the toe-in/out of the front wheels. Duh...

 

[sag2]

The recall has been revised from the version posted.