Here I am

Not impressed with Psychotty!

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TxRam:



I too am sorry the Psychotty Air Filter is not working

for you.



Like "drawson", "EMD" and "illflem", I am pleased

with mine. I also had the stock airbox before with

the K&N Filter and the rubber inlet hose to the fender

removed at the time I installed the Psychotty. Running

"bobtail" at 70MPH, level surface, with the stock airbox

showed about a 700 degree EGT. With the Psychotty

it is now 600 degrees. With my racing trailer on the same

type surface: Before: 800 degree EGT

With the Psychotty: 700 degrees.

I know it is "unscientific" but I feel I can safely say

it has lowered my EGT's about 100 degrees "across

the board. "



---------

John_P
 
Right on DHofeldt and Drawson!

TXRam, NOWHERE on your Ram is the air pressure higher than the leading edge of the hood... that's exactly why Doug Hofeldt designed the air intake of the Air Bulldog induction hood at that particular location instead of further back on the hood as is most commonly seen. If you ever saw the original commercials advertising the new (then) 1994 second generation Rams in the wind tunnel you would know the leading edge of the hood is the highest pressure area on your Ram.



BTW Hammer, I have NEVER received anything but positive comments about my Air Bulldog induction hood.



Thanks Doug, for helping my engine keep its cool, keep a lid on the engine noise, reduce my silicon levels by at least five fold and, what can I say about the awesome looks? :cool::cool::cool::cool:
 
Re: Right on DHofeldt and Drawson!

Originally posted by John



for helping my engine keep its cool,

Now if he would work on something for you! LOL. :D



Heck, my wife even likes the Air Bulldog hood better than mine or any others she has seen! And she doesn't even know about the functionality of it.



However, back on topic, I would think that these tests, run with the famed SPA gauges, would be pretty darn accurate. It is much easier to stop and look at a recorded high EGT, then to watch your gauges going up and down.
 
I wonder

So exactly how effective is Ram air on a turbo motor?? If some of you have not done this do it. Go remove your intercooler hose where it hooks to the intake. Start your truck and feel the amount of air it puts out. It puts out alot... now go have somone rev the motor to about 2500. If you feel like it go get some hose and blow the driveway off. Your going to have to be flying to get a ram air affect at WOT. IMHO a ram air does no good really but to supply you with good cool fresh air, which will no doubt lower your EGTs. I think the turbo pulls enough air to cancel the ram effect.



JMO of course but that turbo pulls alot of air at unloaded RPMS. Have that sucker pulling 20-30PSI and your going to have some high winds.
 
Originally posted by TXRam

Bill L. , I knew I heard about the "stealth" pre-filter somewhere before.




I first heard about it during Desert Storm- they used pantyhose to keep sand out of the air filters on the M1A1 Abrams tanks in Saudi- good enough for them, good enough for me.



The JRE heat shield should work as well as the exhaust blanket I have- either way, you're keeping heat away from the intake.



I still think having the hole in the firewall helps- You just can't get TOO much air!



Have you heard from EX-Fearless Leader . 243 lately?
 
Here is some actual testing I did last year. My wife told me I was crazy for spending the time to change the filters out between runs.



EGT test using different air filters and configurations hauling cattle up a 5 ½ % grade 5. 6 miles long, two cows at a time. Tried to visually load cows so that the weight was the same. Outside temp (o/s) taken off in cab gauge. Cruise set at 65 MPH in 5th. EGT reading at the top of grade.



W/ stock housing and new paper filter (Fram) o/s 74 Deg EGT 1200+

with about one mile left had to kick the cruise off, down shift to 4th, and slow to 60 MPH to keep the EGT under 1200.



W/ stock housing and K&N filter o/s 78 Deg EGT 1100



W/ Open RE-0880 K&N filter o/s 80 Deg EGT 1050



W/ Psycotty housing w/ insulation tape and RE-0880 filter o/s 84 Deg EGT 950 - 975



There is also a big seat of the pants difference between the paper filter and a K&N in the Psychotty housing. The engine just feels freer to run with the bigger filter and the Psychotty housing.
 
Ram air does work on turbo engine, if it doesn;t why is it that if you look in to any form of racing there is some type of ram air on 99% of all turbo charged engines gas or diesel!This May at may madness I got a chance to talk to Lawrence Bolten of Diesel Dynamics and he said that he did some testing and came up with a horse power figure of 40 hp at 80 mph with my hood. They were so busy I didn;t get a good idea how he came up with that figure but he is going to do some additional testing, I do know he has the ability to do this testing, he worked for dyno jet for years,and had to do simular testing in that job. :)
 
Hey Mike, I need a set

Originally posted by '956Wheel

TXRAM,



P. S. Right now, as we speak, I am in the production mode of high performance muffler bearings so act now to obtain the best price! These bearings will be made of Hastalloy with TIN coating to enhance their long term heat and wear resistance.



I need them to go with the piston rings I ordered. Let me know when you get a package deal worked out.



As for the Psychotty, I'll leave my opinion out of the debate. I don't have one and I've heard about as many good opinion's on it as bad. I know I'd be pi$$ed off with a hole in my truck and no improvement in performance as the product was advertised to do.
 
Modified stock airbox

Well I am going to do my own testing also. Last night I did a little project by drilling two 3" holes in my airdam then routed a hose from there to my airbox. I drilled a 3" hose in the bottom of the airbox and connected it there. I wanted to run one hose from each hole in the airdam but didn't have the room, so I'm Teeing them together and running one hose. My hope is there will be a decent ram effect at the airdam. If I could run 2 hoses to the airbox I'd plug off the snorkel opening in hopes of gaining positive pressure in the lower portion of the box. Which may not help EGTs much but maybe help efficiency slightly. . . who knows.



With temps expected to run 100-105 this week it will give me a chance to see how EGTs compare to what I saw in May (when it was 100F). I am running the Amsoil filter, which is VERY dirty right now.



I also reinstalled the snorkel to the fender since I have 2 sources of air now. I was going to drill a 3" hole in the cowl for an air source there but couldn't bring myself to do it. . . so went for the airdam instead. I used aluminum dryer hose, turned out pretty good :)



Vaughn
 
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Turbos work off pressure ratio - the higher the inlet pressure to the impeller, the higher the outlet pressure.



I'd like to see some test data for the Air Bulldog hood and Dam Air set ups... ... I'm highly skeptical of the 40hp @ 80mph w/o data.





Brian
 
Vaughan, please post your results - I, for one, am very interested in the results. I'm going to try a few more things myself (like repeating my tests going uphill, testing with JRE's heat shield as soon as I can get one, etc. ).



NVR FNSH - Very true.



It's all compression ratio, which means a small difference in compressor inlet pressure is magnified at the discharge. For example(this is assuming wastegate is closed and stays closed), if your peak boost is 38 psi with the stock airbox (let's assume it's under 0. 5psi vaccum), the compression ratio is 3. 71 (convert psi's to psia by adding 14. 7 to each before dividing the discharge by the suction). Now, if you had forced air at positive 0. 5 psi, the discharge would theoretically go up to 41. 7psi with no additional work from the turbine. Therefore, you should get lower temps and more power (40HP does sound high to me also).
 
Vaughan, it may be too late, but if you drill two 3" holes overlapping then trim the excess to form an oval you can then use a 4" hose squeezed down to an oval on the ends. Helps the hose to stay in better also.
 
illflem,



What kind of 4" hose do you use & where do you get it?



I'm spying 3" holes like Vaughn. Looks like 1 next to the battery & the other right around the corner. I was thinking of using the RV sewer hose plastic 'splicers' & glue them into the airbox. The 3" hose will slip over & clamp.



Thanks
 
Well it was 101F this afternoon so I kept a close eye on EGTs while running errands after work. The plumbing does seem to help, but I didn't keep close track of EGTs the last time it was hot outside. They do not seem to rise as fast during acceleration, and fall more quickly when decelerating, especially if you're going over 40mph. Even running the A/C, there was noticeably less smoke on acceleration and better response than last time we had a hot spell.



Underway EGTs are about 50F lower but I can't say for sure. Cruising easy at 40mph they were 375-475F running the A/C. Didn't get a chance to check it on the highway much because traffic wouldn't cooperate (lots of Left Lane Losers today :mad: )



Bill, I like your idea on going with the oval effect, would look better. Also would like to maybe get some sewer or other type of hose, this aluminum stuff is a little difficult to deal with, it crumples and tears too easily. When I relocate my batteries under the bed (another project) I can easily run 2 hoses to the airbox and cover over the fender snorkel hole like I mentioned before.



Tomorrow I'll cruise the highway in the afteroon and watch EGTs, maybe throw on the flatbed. It's supposed to reach 105F.



Vaughn
 
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Data

I haven,t made a h. p. clam my self becouse it is hard to get data on something that is moving. Chip of Blue Chip has a stress dyno that is part of his trany yoke he was going to do some testing for me on my hoods but that never happened. I have a G-tech I did see a increase of 15 to 20 H. P. that test was over two days and if it would have been on the same day with temp or nothing else changing it would have been better. Some day I will get some reliable data and share the findings good or bad. As for you guys that are puting hoses up to your air boxes a 4in. dryer hose is what I use on my dam air sys. you have to pull on your inner fender but it will go up between to the lower box I make a inexpensive fiberglass adapter that pop rivits to the box for the four inch pipe:confused:
 
Vaughn, the two holes into a oval work. I did this on my stock air box and connected it to a 4. 5" hole in the cowling.



Due to a crimp in the dryer vent hose used to conned the two, I'm not getting the full benefit of the new cool air source. As a matter of fact EGT's are about what they were with 4, 2" holes in the air box (those are currently sealed) and the snorkel removed.



My next attempt will be to source or build a large housing to accept a large dia. long paper filter (Donaldson?) and connect it to both the fender opening and the cowling hole. Both should provide adequate air to keep my filder minder (gonna try and keep it with the new housing) from staying in the 20" area it currently stays. May help on the smoke aswell.



Lately, I've been eying the chrome filter housing located on the side of a little Mack truck I meet often. Thinking, hum, big truck filter, big truck housing, big Dodge Cummins, hum.
 
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Any more test results? Dwayne? Vaughn?



I also cut a hole in my stock airbox and connected it to the cowl via some 3" air duct. Haven't been able to test it yet - will most likely be tomorrow afternoon. It is quieter.



I kept the Psychotty in for 5 days - the more I drove it, the more I agreed with those that said it was too loud for them. I don't mind the "whistle" when I'm accelerating, but when cruising it is annoying. This could probably be lessened/prevented by cuttiing a hole in the side of the Psychotty and connecting it the to stock hole in the fender wall with some duct.
 
TXRam, I really think you've hit on the solution, that being to tie the Psychotty into the fender opening and draw air from both locations, cowl and fender. From reading previous post, this should reduce the noise level, and augment the supply of cool air. My only concern is the filter element itself. I just don't have the confidence level necessary to use a oiled foam filter in on my truck. Others have and it's worked great for them. I may come around but haven't as of yet.



Thanks for taking the time to do the testing and reporting.



Ronnie
 
Hey Moparguy, dont worry about the oiled filters. ask anybody who does oil samples and they will tell you, it will stop the dirt and should go at least 50k miles between cleanings unless your in really dusty conditions. I have had them on every car i own with no problem. Plus i use them on my Motocross bikes too, that should show something, those bikes are in conditions far worse then your Ram will ever see.

Also, those filter minders are pretty much worthless/ They are never consistent and sometimes wont even work, we had a front end loader starved for air to the point it almost died and the filter minder was showing the filter was fine. There are some posts on here if you do a search about them too and how worthless they are. By all means, dont let your trucks performance suffer just to save te filter minder.
 
I agree about the filter minder being not used to determine when to change your filter and I wouldn't hesitate to get rid of it either, but it does give one piece of data. It is essentially measuring vacuum (not on any particular scale, but under enough vacuum, it pulls down and compresses the spring), but not very accurate. That's why I mentioned it before - with a clean K&N, I could pull it down to almost 50%, but after removing the snorkel, it won't budge. Just says there was more vacuum at the turbo's suction with the snorkel than without it, quite a bit more - when my K&N was "dirty" and after more mod's (i. e. , more boost and airflow), it still won't pull down. I put the snorkel back in about 3 weeks ago just to check it out - WOT one time and it was down past 50%. Bottom line, I use it for comparison between different set-ups on the stock airbox, but nothing else.
 
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