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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Potentiometer installed!

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Pressure Readings

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I cannot believe how well my truck drives now. I am just so mad at myself for not doing it years ago. If you haven’t done it yet, DO IT! I was skeptical because I didn’t feel as if I had an issue. Now that I have driven my truck with the potentiometer, I realize how bad it was. It was so easy and cheap. There is no excuse for not swapping your TPS for one. I just got back from a 200 mile trip towing a 21 foot boat. Not too heavy, but wow what a difference. I was able to keep it in the sweet spot with the touch of a dial. I just wanted to pass this on to the people who haven’t done this modification yet. Thanks to all the people who posted information that I was able to tap into, just by doing a search.
 
The pre made one above is probably the easiest way to go. I made my own because I was on a mission to do so. I used the Radio Shack 5k-ohm Linear Taper Potentiometer part #: 271-1714 ($4. 00). Not the audio potentiometer. You will need some 3 strand 18 gauge wire. I purchased 6 foot of 18-4 sprinkler wire from home depot ($8. 00). I only used 3 of the wires. Just cut the connecter off of the wires going to the TPS. Attach the center wire on the connecter to the center wire on the potentiometer. Then attach the other two wires. It doesn't matter which side they go on, but they do determine which way the knob will operate. I twisted my wires together and took it for a test drive. It worked, but I had to turn the knob counter clockwise to raise the mph it would shift into 4th. In my mind, this was backwards. I just swapped the two wires and soldered everything together. I left the old TPS in place so not to mess with the linkages. I will attach this thread because it has a few pictures. It over complicated the whole thing by utilizing computer connectors to plug the wires together. It also has a few wrong part numbers posted. I will not post the part number for the knob because the will be a selection of knobs there. You can decide what knob you like. I cut about a half inch of the potentiometer post to shorten the knob. Just thought it would look better. I used low temperature solder to solder the wires to the potentiometer so I would not melt it. If you use the low temperature solder, make sure you are in a well-ventilated area. It contains lead.

I saved the old connecter so I can return it to stock just by reattaching the end and plugging it in. THIS WILL NEVER HAPPEN! I would do this mod even if your TPS is working perfectly fine. It makes a good driving vehicle great. Good luck.



Installing a Potentiometer in place of the TPS - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums
 
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Well following JMcCoy's instructions today I installed the same potentiometer on my truck thereby deleting the TPS. It seems to work fine but i'm unable to get the TC to lock up any lower than what stock was with the TPS. I don't know, guess I'll give it more time but I don't see the big difference YET. I understand that if i'm towing something heavy i would be able to twist the knob and change gears or drop the OD. Time will tell. Probably the cheapest mod at 3$ since I already had the wire.
 
I cannot believe how well my truck drives now. I am just so mad at myself for not doing it years ago. If you haven't done it yet, DO IT! I was skeptical because I didn't feel as if I had an issue. Now that I have driven my truck with the potentiometer, I realize how bad it was. It was so easy and cheap. There is no excuse for not swapping your TPS for one. I just got back from a 200 mile trip towing a 21 foot boat. Not too heavy, but wow what a difference. I was able to keep it in the sweet spot with the touch of a dial. I just wanted to pass this on to the people who haven't done this modification yet. Thanks to all the people who posted information that I was able to tap into, just by doing a search.

My problem with my recently rebuilt trans. is, esp. when towing heavy, it shifts into O. D. then immediately into lock-up, (both too early) then I get turbo bark.
I do understand how, with the potentiometer, you can adjust hang time for O. D.
Questions: Will the potentiometer be able make more hang time between O. D. and and lock-up? Is lock-up controlled electronically or hydraulically?
TIA, Ray
 
I also have an ATS lock up controller. I usually have mine set to lock up around 40 mph and go into OD at 50 mph.
 
They have it on the ATS website Part # 6019102164. It is not cheap. They have it listed for $450. I don't remember paying that much though. I would pay the that much again. It's worth it to me.
 
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