PullRite SuperGlide Installation - Anyone DIY???

[JimBob24]

Howdy all...

Has anyone done their own installation of a Pullrite SuperGlide 16K 5th wheel hitch with the SuperRail mounts (PN 3349) in a SWB 3rd gen?

I have a Reese 15K with slider in my truck now and it works fine, but on the rare occasions I have to use the slider it is a real pain! I usually takes two to use the slider; one to rock the truck back and forth slowly while the other tries to disengage the unlocking lever. Anyway, it takes time and thinking ahead. Trying to maneuver in a tight spot while holding up traffic is not a good time to have to bail out of the truck and go through all of that! Of course, I want to avoid that day when I forget or miscalculate and commit a real blunder by trying to disprove that law of physics that states that two solid objects can not occupy the same space at the same time; i. e. , the corner of the trailer and the back of the cab. I have read a lot of threads about the PullRite SuperGlide and it looks like that is the way to go. I am waiting for the video and info I ordered but I probably will order one in the near future. It looks like there was some earlier problems with finish quality and shipping problems but that apparently has improved.

What I would like to know is... how difficult is it to install it yourself? I am fairly mechanically inclined so I do not mind a little work, but I do not want to jump into a real nightmare! It looks like I can order the hitch and rails for just under $2100. A local dealer wants over $500. for installation. It would be nice to save that cash, but I would rather have them install it if it is more than moderately difficult.

I would GREATLY appreciate any info or advice from someone who has "been there and done that. " Jim

 

[EricBu12]

on my 01 the super rails used existing holes for the bracket to bolt to. I think I heard that they did the same thing for the 3rd gen.



The neat thing is the super rails attach to the brackets only and all you have to do is find the holes in the bed where they are. Was only a fraction off when I drilled mine. (2. 5" hole) and then the rails clip onto the pins which go into the bracket and the hitch on the rails with 4 pins.



So when you pull all the pins, and the rails, all you have is a clean bed with 4 holes in it but no mounting rails to get in the way. Took about 6-7 hours to do as I had a little cutting on the bed to do that had nothing to do with anything for the bracket to fit... .



I imagine the Pull-rite people have done the same thing for the 3rd gen. Justy different brackets. The only thing you might need is a torque wrench to go upto 150 ft # for the bracket bolts. Other than that, it's not too bad.



I used a Air cut-off wheel to cut some sheetmetal on the bed and a 2. 5" hole saw bit was the only special tools I used.



Do a search on towing area for my installing a New 5th wheel hitch. I have pics. Also the pics are in the Readers rigs

 

[GaryCarter]

I did mine; took about 4 hours. No drilling, except where the four pins go through the floor of the truck bed. You need a hole saw for that.

All the frame brackets just clamp on to the frame.



Easier to install than the last 3 Reese hitches I installed on previous trucks.



Mike

 

[JimBob24]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate that info. Sounds very encouraging. I am going to a dealer not too far away to look at his personal truck with the same installation but I probably will give it a try. I was familiar that the setup used no drill brackets on the frame. Maybe I can interest someone in a Reese 15K with a new slider and the no drill frame brackets for it. :-laf



I assume that the adapter that goes on the trailer is just a simple bolt-on.

 

[EricBu12]

One thing I did, I bought a regular 15K hitch... . no slider... About $350, I bought the super-Rails as well. $300... .



Because I have a short-bed, I needed something to help for the wheelbase. I got the pop-up hitch that attaches to the trailer and extends the pin 10" and raises the trailer front 3". See it at www.popuphitch.com/rv5.htm . I also have the picture of my trailer on it. my setup... . This left the trailer level when hooked up and I am able to make fairly sharp turns like 75-80 deg. My trailer is a 36' , 3 axle toyhauler so I wouldn't want to do a turn sharper than that anyway... . The thing is, the total of these things saved me about $1000 from getting the automatic slider from pull-rite.

 

[klenger]

I installed my SuperRails and Super 5th (non slider) in my truck. See http://www.klenger.net/dodge/pullrite/index.html for details and comments.

 

[Fireman]

Jim,



I installed a Superglide on a 2Gen and Superrails on my 3Gen and I thought that it was easier on the 3Gen. I got the first set of 3Gen brackets and had to install them with no instructions, and it was still easier. Since I haven't seen the instructions, I don't know if it is mentioned, but there was one little "trick" that I found. When installing the front bracket on the right side of the truck I had to run 2 fish wires through the frame rail to pull the "dog bone" (you'll know it when you see it) through the frame. Toward the rear of the truck there is an exhaust hanger that goes through the frame, make sure that both wires go over or under the hanger ( not one over and the other under). Really the hardest part of the install was laying out the holes to be cut in the bed, take your time, measure and check you measurements, then remeasure and recheck. Another trick for a clean cut on the holes in the bed is to get a piece of scrap 3/4" plywood and use the holesaw to cut a hole in the plywood, this will be your guide. Then when the 1/4" pilot bit has gone through the bed floor, remove the bit, lay the board over the pilot hole, reinsert the pilot bit and line up the holesaw and the hole in the plywood. Stand on the edges of the plywood and cut the hole in the bed, this will keep the saw from walking, and you will have a nice "clean" hole in your bed. Trust me you really want to do this



The adapter plate that goes on the pin box does bolt on, but it isn't exactly simple. I chose to drill and tap the pin box to install the plate.



Since you are convinced that you need a Superglide I know that you won't be dissapointed with your new hitch. They are great.



Fireman

 

[JimBob24]

Man, that is some great stuff! Klenger, I really appreciate the slideshow. I had seen it but I finally realized that the SuperRails are the same on the sliding and non-sliding PullRite hitches. I also used your info when I installed my BrakeSmart. That is one awesome brake controller.



Thanks Fireman for the tips on the hole saw guide. I have all this info printed and ready to go.



BTW, the HARDEST part was convincing my wife that this was "necessary", especially since I just bought the slider for the Reese a couple of months ago. The Reese was sturdy and functional, but more trouble than I anticipated, and it does not slide quite as far as the PullRite. Using the Reese no drill mounts specific for my truck, the kingpin ended up being about 3" forward of the rear axle centerline. With the Reese slid to the rear, I still could not jacknife the combo 90 degrees. According to the Pullrite info my 8' wide RV should go the 90 degrees with 4-5 inches to spare. Close, but good enough, and I doubt I will be cutting it that close anyway. I just want the assurance and peace of mind.



With the PullRite installed in the normal forward position, is your kingpin centered over the rear axle, or is it forward a little?

 

[GaryCarter]

I assume that the adapter that goes on the trailer is just a simple bolt-on.

That depends on the size of your trailer plate and how accessible it is to drill and bolt through. The way mine is constructed I ended up just welding the adapter on the trailer pin box, because it was darn near impossible to reach inside it. YMMV



Mike

 

[Fireman]

I considered welding the adapter to the pin box, but decided against it. If you were to break down you would have to remove the adapter plate for someone to be able to tow your tailer with a regular 5w hitch. I had to drill more holes in the plate, countersink them, then drill and tap corresponding holes in the pin box. I was glad I did, because I kept the trailer longer than the truck. I bought a LWB truck so I didn't need the Superglide anymore.



Fireman

 

[GaryCarter]

If you were to break down you would have to remove the adapter plate for someone to be able to tow your tailer with a regular 5w hitch.

I understand Pullrite also sells an adapter to allow towing the trailer with a conventional fifth wheel hitch- $75.



Mike

 

[Fireman]

That must be new, because I inquired about welding the plate to the pin box and Pull Rite advised against it. They are always looking for ways to improve their products. Thanks for the info.



Fireman