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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) the 70 dollar lift pump

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmission prob

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I doubt you will need the pigtail. My son-in-law's 98 did not require it. My 01 did not require it. No adapters needed when I installed the Vulcan kit either. Everything just plugged right in.
 
Thank's for the reply's,just ordered the vulcan kit today so I will be relocating the pump after all. How long does it take to move the pump? any hints for the sb quad-cab on the relocate. Don
 
Mine bolted right in and plugged right in, hardest part was getting the banjo fittings back on, and that isn't that hard.



As for moving the pump down with the vulcan kit, definitely do it!

There is a large hole in the frame just in front of the tank, if you use the hole above this, you can have the pigtail stick into that hole (the pigtail is pointed towards the frame rail side, and on mine, this was the only place with the carter bracket to put it).



Can't remember if it's mentioned in the instructions, but I ALWAYS run a ground from the pump to the frame. Just run it from the bracket bolt to one of the pump mounting bolts. Simple, and always an extra safety.
 
The original pigtail on my 99 was attached to the pump by ring terminals on threaded studs, it was easy to see the difference. I needed the adaper for mine the first time.
 
I just picked up 2 LP's part# 4090046-$64. 90 each



Cummins Cal Pacific-------949 253-6000

1939 Deere Ave

Irvine,Ca

92606

(Parts is in the building in back)



Just walked in, gave them the part number asked how much and do you have them in stock.

One of the parts guys even commented on my stacks :D (truck was parked right in front of the door)



You guys posting that Cummins parts houses wont sell them to you need to call one of the many Cummins parts dealers listed in this thread... I did and I know have cheap spares... ...
 
I am not happy with "NEW redesigned pump" either (2 months old). I installed my Juice w/Attitude last week end & FP is 12 @ idle, & I can drag it to 3 PSI on 5x5. So much for redesigns.



Needless to say, FASS in my very near future... ... ... .....
 
The real benifit I saw on the new pump was the ability to nearly steal it on the Cummins campaign program. The pump in of itself, it seems, has remainde unchanged. The new pump is supposed to have a bypass in the head, so when it fails the VP can still get a little fuel thru it. Cummins thinks with that you should at least be able to get home on a dead LP without killing the VP.



My "new" LP is still doing well, but a FASS or RASP would provide a little more security.
 
Froadin said:
Can't remember if it's mentioned in the instructions, but I ALWAYS run a ground from the pump to the frame. Just run it from the bracket bolt to one of the pump mounting bolts. Simple, and always an extra safety.



That's a good tip. I did check the ground to my frame mounter Carter and it was good. Those guys using rubber isolators to dampen the noise from the pump might need a ground wire.

Mike
 
The 70 dollar pump is actually a cummins update besause the kept having school busses break down. I work for a cummins dealer i bet you'd hate me if i told you cost was only 36 bucks.
 
Well, us paying 55 - 60 bucks for the $36 pump is a lot better than paying DC $200 for the same pump.



I know a dealer (either Cummins or DC) has to make money and 50 - 100 points over the counters isn't unusual to the public.



But ~ 600% , thats a rip off (DC charging $200 and more), for what should be a warranty item from DC, since DC messed up the design.



That's the biggest shame of it all. DC F@#$ed up bad and didn't try and fix the relationship with the owners of the TDRams.



And I would think they had their reasons, from things I heard from the dealers when I had to fight to get my LP fixed under warranty.



When I brought my truck in for warranty they are busy looking for Velcro under the hood and splits in wires to prove I had a box on the engine before bringing it in. . but I never ran a box. I had Cummins antifreeze in cooling system, during their expedition under my hood, they noticed it and I heard the manager tell the clerk to made a note on my warranty that I wasn't running the proper color antifreeze.



I never had warranty arguments or issues with the Ford dealers I used.

DC has gone nukin futz.



I have heard the same thing from many other folks... and DC had a tech bulletin out to tell the techs what to look for and the signs of bombing and removed boxes.



#$@%$#$% dealer wanted to find a way not to fix my LP under warranty... but my truck was clean as a whistle and stock. It seems ( - in part - dont get me wrong here) DC spent years thinking the LP problems were from folks looking for more fueling due to boxes. And some folks blew up their engine, or developed other problems, under warranty cause they had a box or bombed their engine in someway... , then take it off/cover their tracks and try and get warranty work. That's caused the twitchy warranty finger with the dealers and problems for us that run stock. You play you (should) pay. But in the end it caused DC and the dealers to come off looking bad. I was never treated like that at a Ford dealer.



Sorry, just blowing off steam... kinda hit critical mass thinking about what DC charges for the $36 pump that cost $12 to make, on top of the LP and the dealers/warranty being a sore point.
 
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Help me out I'm in the dark. I've had my truck about a year. How do you know if the lp is needing to be replaced? I am having the dead pedal symptom from time to time. I saw an old post that discussed this. Is that an indicator that the lp needs to be replaced or has it already ruined the fuel pump.
 
1st and foremost, get a pressure gauge.

Best to install one permanently.

But of course you can install a test gauge and take it for a ride.

The original Cummins position was. .

Stock truck, good LP, at WOT on the road, 10lbs pressure or more is a good LP.



The dealer will tell you it's based on volume, so that even zero pressure is ok, as long as when they do a volume / time test in the bay it's ok. . THATS pure B. S.



Cummins now has a kit out for buses and trucks with the ISB that has a Low Pressure warning switch that kicks in 3 - 5lbs... warning that the LP is bad.



I still believe in the 8-9lbs and it's time to replace.

10 and above, all is good.

It makes sense on a stock truck, stock lines.



I've heard other possible problems with dead pedal, can't remember them all.

But to rule out the LP, get a pressure gauge installed so you KNOW what's what with your LP.



My VP44 has lived through a bad LP that was producing 5psi @ idle and zero @ WOT and working hard. I foolishly did not have a pressure gauge. The burning smell from the VP44 is what clued me in. Power and pedal were fine, as was starting.

After the LP was replaced, was at 15psi idle, and 12 psi WOT and no more smell from the VP44 when working it hard and planting the pedal to the floor for long periods of time.
 
I had one of the 4090046 pumps die after 6k mi. and less than 6 months. I was using it as a pusher. It had erratic pressure,5 or less at idle and 10 wot. I know thats backwards from normal failure but thats what it was doing. Just for the hell of it I filed a warranty claim with Cummins. The guy on the phone sounded like I was going to get a refund. I will let you guys know if it works.
 
Temple TX freightliner dealer

I just bought this at the local Temple Texas Freightliner Dealer. Lonestar I think it is called. Just called in, they had one, and drove over and picked it up, no questions asked. With tax it was $74 and change. The pump is a carter pump with the same outside appearance but slightly different internals than the factory one. If you shake it from side to side, you can hear the check valve in the bypass circuit move a little. In other bad Lift Pump news, O'Reilly autoparts, the largest local chain here, recently ended their lifetime warranty on the lift pumps due to issues with people cheating the system and returning the factory carter for an exchange and other things. They still sell the same carter, but it is now in an Airtex labeled box, and costs $160 plus tax with a one year warranty. The Cummins parts kit is the way to go.



Jon
 
My lift pump started leaking at the electircal connector on the bottom. Original pump with 56,000 miles on it, probably a victim of the new ULSD fuel. Bought two of the 4090046 lift pumps today at a local diesel mechanic shop, $64. 95 each. He ordered them from one of his distributors in southern California.
 
this thread just paid my TDR subscription for another 4 years!!!

just bought 2 of these LP, with the money that I saved I can stay a TDR member in good standing for another 4 years.....



this place is GREAT!!!
 
dnesbitt3 said:
just bought 2 of these LP, with the money that I saved I can stay a TDR member in good standing for another 4 years.....



this place is GREAT!!!



..... And thats what it's all about! Oo.
 
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