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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) The Search for Max H.P. 24 Valve

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission no luck finding shocks

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justinp20012500 said:
The cracking of the blocks are caused by the block wall being very thin when they casted it. (like 3 mm)



The 56 bock has a much better cast, the wall is like 6 mm thick and I don't know if anyone has ever had a 56 crack on them.







Thickness? I think it goes further, take into consideration all of the problems associated with that last cylinder- surely that higher E. G. T. issue is not from thickness of wall. Then why not the same @ cyl. #5-4-3-2-1? And coolant flow- LOOK AT ALL THAT COOLANT PASSAGES IN OUR ENGINES!



I don't want to dispell any truth!



I JUST WANT FACTS! ;)

and more power! :-laf



reliable power! :-laf



daily driven power!!! :D



Keep the info coming guys!!!! :cool:
 
RD-

Please make baseline recordings with your setup now and when you complete this homebrewed twinram set-up you will have records to compare any improvements to... ... . :cool:



I'm having a hard time downloading pics to use on this forum- I'm using AOL (sucks) :{
 
justinp20012500 said:
I would just bend the old ones.



I saw some lines where a guy took a p7100 and put it on a 24v head. He took the stock VP lines and contorted them to fit on the p pump. It didn't look pretty, but it worked!





I'd be careful when re stressing them lines- They're thin! :p
 
Hey Scott Bentz-



When you finally lopped off your intake plenum- did you 'record' any changes in temperatures with e. g. t. 's- or coolant temps- before mod- and after?

Or maybe you changed a group of parts and couldnt really tell if it helped or not- I remember you guys made a few changes turbos-injection pumps ect. just wondering... ... ... . :cool:

Thanks In Advance Oo.
 
justinp20012500 said:
I would just bend the old ones.



I saw some lines where a guy took a p7100 and put it on a 24v head. He took the stock VP lines and contorted them to fit on the p pump. It didn't look pretty, but it worked!







RD-

On second thought- do you really want to re-bend the existing injection lines that you have on running truck? or did you wrangle another set with spare head? Don't want to see you shut-down cause something went wrong you know..... ;) :{

Ya might not want to bend your existing lines! :eek:
 
RacinDuallie said:
I'd be careful when re stressing them lines- They're thin! :p





Thin???? I had a leaking line once that I could not for the life of get to stop leaking. I took my hack saw and cut it off the motor and I would say the lines are far from being thin. Or bendable for that matter, but i can be done.



Roman and I have talked about the lines and I have a complete set of extra lines for a VP equipped motor.
 
justinp20012500 said:
Thin???? I had a leaking line once that I could not for the life of get to stop leaking. I took my hack saw and cut it off the motor and I would say the lines are far from being thin. Or bendable for that matter, but i can be done.



Roman and I have talked about the lines and I have a complete set of extra lines for a VP equipped motor.





O. k. o. k. - justin!

I just was lookin out for the guy!! :eek:
 
On my new engine that I'm currently building, I am combating the heat with Thermal Barrier Coatings, If I could just get these dang pics to download- :{

Controlling the excess heat is key in a street build. ( IMHO)
 
RDLeader said:
Slice N Dice







RD-

Got my old cylinder head on bench saw your quote and thought the same thing!!

Gonna start slicing this restrictive Intake Plenum off!

Ground work for RAMIFOLD begins... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Oo.
 
RacinDuallie said:
RD-

Got my old cylinder head on bench saw your quote and thought the same thing!!

Gonna start slicing this restrictive Intake Plenum off!

Ground work for RAMIFOLD begins... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Oo.





Duallie, share the pics
 
RDLeader said:
Duallie, share the pics





:{ RD-

I'm more than happy to supply pics!! :)



I WANT to show some pics! :cool:



As soon as I figure it out on HOW to :confused:



Justin has offered help with downsizing them for posting as a last resort!!

(Thanks Justin! ;) )



I'm tryin- I'm tryin!!! :p



As soon as I get to the garage it'll be chop chop chop!!! :D







Don't worry I'll take plenty of pics! I like going back and look at them for more ideas- while I'm at work! :-laf
 
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If you are looking for a a little improvement on coolant flow for the #6. Cummins has a plate that allows you to circulate coolant from the back of the block. This piece is used on the med-duty motors and the coolant goes from the back of the block to the air compressor.
 
Could you use some kind of metal cutting saw (bandsaw)to cut off that intake or does it have to be some kind of drilling machine. Is there a similar restriction in the 12 valve head?
 
OK, Secret of the week (don't tell anyone):



If you do not have access to a huge bandsaw, do what I did. I started with a Sawzall and bimetal blades. Not fast enough, and wears them like heck. Even while flooding them with cutting oil.



Step 2. Use the Sawzall with carborundum coated blades made for cast iron. (Home Depot Specials) Cut slots from the outside of the head to the intake port, stopping 1/2" from the new flange surface. Make the slots about 3" apart.



Step 3: (Here is the high tech part) Take a 2 pound hand sledge and WHACK AWAY! One Chunk at a time.



Step 4: Now you have intake flange that looks like as smooth as the rocky mountains. Take and set it up in a mill, and start "whittlin". The depth? Another secret. There is a bolthole, drilled in the front of nearly all 24V heads, on the front face surface, about 6mm diameter. The new flange should intersect the center of that. It ends up at the top corner of the manifold.



Step 5. Build the new RAMIFOLD (I like that!) to fit. Drill and blast 40 or so 1/4" NC holes to hold it on. Silicone sealer, and go make HP.
 
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DieselNasty said:
Could you use some kind of metal cutting saw (bandsaw)to cut off that intake or does it have to be some kind of drilling machine. Is there a similar restriction in the 12 valve head?



That's the way Scott did his intake I believe. Then just set it up on the bridgeport and mill it flat. EDM'ing the thing is the way to go about doing it right, but not everyone has access to one. The shop rate on edm's run upwards of $100 an hour. I'll have to check table dimensions and see what they are. That would work well if you were wanting to weld it back on after porting.





Roman
 
RDLeader said:
That's the way Scott did his intake I believe. Then just set it up on the bridgeport and mill it flat. EDM'ing the thing is the way to go about doing it right, but not everyone has access to one. The shop rate on edm's run upwards of $100 an hour. I'll have to check table dimensions and see what they are. That would work well if you were wanting to weld it back on after porting.





Roman

Even Easier: The racer's best friend. Seriously, I won't admit how many parts I have "reused" with J-B.....
 
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