Well, I'm back...

[sdeeter19555]

Here are the floors...

 

[sdeeter19555]

Does anyone have an idea what was on the inner that would have ripped it open?

 

[sdeeter19555]

And I just took a few to show the wiring clean up...

 

[sdeeter19555]

Well, had quite a set back...little more research and I found that lift blocks are generally illegal in most states...so now I have to buy a lift as I already bought the tires (35s). And the worst part was I asked this question of an inspection mechanic prior to buying the truck. So I'm going to likely end up with a 4-inch Skyjacker, adjustable drag link, and drop pitman arm...its only money.

I stripped all the trim and headline out last night, pulled the seat today, put a coat of rust converter on the floor. Knocked out a large dent in the passenger door, fixed the bend in the lower rear bed panel....it isn't perfect, but neither is the rest of the truck. I'm not putting any of the trim or headliner back in, only the drivers kick panel for the floor vent.

Figured out this truck was once fully loaded (power everything), and that was all "deleted"...now I got a gob of wires to terminate.

Tuesday I will fiberglass the floor and paint the battery tray and driver's front inner fender (battery boiled over?). Then sand it the cab floors, wash the cab out, prime it, and spray it with U-Pol bedliner.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Well, been a while..

Got the floors done...bedliner and all. Bought a bench seat to get rid of the 2nd gen seat.

Got the windshield out and fixed the roof...broke the windshield on reinstall (it was chipped). Pulled the rear window and cut in the paint.

Found a leaking wheel cylinder, just started leaking while sitting. Replaced that and will replaced the other one as the leaking one had a pinned seized and the other leaking. Got all new hoses to make sure I start with as good of brakes as I can...

Popped a fusible link, replaced all the links with a fuse panel, determined I had bare wires on the transmission harness. Had to replace two sections of wire because it was bare and the insulation was like putty.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Built a set of zero-rates springs to replace the front blocks (that are illegal in most states)...

 

[sdeeter19555]

The to-do list includes:

The KDP - I bought a kit from Geno's, but have discovered some of the bolts are missing. So I have to find some cover bolts...

While the KDP is being done, I'm going to pull the AC compressor off. I already pulled the hoses, condenser, etc...it was bad, basket case. I already bought the short belt to make the change.

I have to address the front blocks. At the same time, I need to pull the back apart and make sure it's safe.

I have to finish the brakes...driver's wheel cylinder, both drop hoses, and front hoses.

Windshield replaced...that's Wednesday.

Tires...cooper ATWs, 315x75r16.

Inspection...and drive it.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Cleaned the airbox...

 

[sdeeter19555]

Finished the fuse block...the relays will all gave purpose, just not critical to connect right now.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Pulled and terminated the old door wiring (power mirrors, power locks, power windows), they had just cut it at the door jamb and it was still live. The passenger side was easy as it was two connectors behind the glove box...the driver's side is part of the harness and I had to pull it out of the jamb, figure out what was live, cut and terminate everything, and pull the powering fuses...I did mark and keep the two main power feed, I may need a fused circuit at some point.

I have now removed and repaired all the PO's wiring...

 

[NIsaacs]

Does anyone have an idea what was on the inner that would have ripped it open?View attachment 114733

Nothing at that location on my '91. Nice work on the wiring!

 

[sdeeter19555]

Nothing at that location on my '91. Nice work on the wiring!

View attachment 116129

I'm thinking they had a set of train horns or something of the like...had to be something pretty heavy or awkwardly mounted.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Daughter and I did the driver's rear wheel cylinder after what I found on the passenger side. The w250 cylinder was a 7/8" bore, the Advance Auto (part number wca35325) was 1-1/8" and was spec'd for a w250 with 12"x3" brakes (12x2.5 aren't an option in their system). They bolt in and work fine...I pulled the passenger side apart again as we found the adjuster was seized on the driver's side (though I checked it on the passenger the first time, but figured I'd lube it

), adjusted the brakes up snug, and installed a new axle nut (the originals had been reused no less than nine times, so they were a little loose).

I would suggest this swap/maintenance for anyone who doesn't know the service history of their truck.

 

[Fastback67]

I'm thinking they had a set of train horns or something of the like...had to be something pretty heavy or awkwardly mounted.

Nothing there on my 1990 either?
Just found this post... Nice work so far! I like your sheet metal repair at the floor pans etc. That work turned out great.
That's a Big block of Fuses & Relays you have there!

Just finished a lot of work up front on mine. Hitting the Rear Brakes is next on the short list.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Nothing there on my 1990 either?
Just found this post... Nice work so far! I like your sheet metal repair at the floor pans etc. That work turned out great.
That's a Big block of Fuses & Relays you have there!

Just finished a lot of work up front on mine. Hitting the Rear Brakes is next on the short list.

Thanks, it's been a bit more of a project than I first envisioned...what started as a quick couple fixes and driving it in a couple weeks has turned into a four month project. I think I'm actually seeing a light at the end of the tunnel! Took it for a quick ride and a lot of my mods have made a world of difference in ride, braking, and handling.

That fuse block wasn't all that expensive, but I wanted the ability to expand...right now with the fusible link debacle, I've used or have a use for every slot of a 12 slot box....

Now, my brakes were obviously compromised and I have very little behind the wheel in this truck to date, but those new wheel cylinders definitely improved the braking...hoses are the other big thing, but mine seem to be ok (it will drain the master cylinder in about 20 minutes by gravity if I'm not watching). The previous owner did put new brakes, hardware, and rotors all the way around, but while he was a farm equipment mechanic, he didn't seem to know the details of the automobile...I found a batch of just stupid mistakes inside the brake hardware...springs in the wrong holes, auto adjuster cable over a spring instead of under so it popped off every time the brakes were used, etc...

 

[Fastback67]

Every time I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel, it turns out to be the light at the entrance of the next tunnel.

I just replaced my front rotors and calipers about a week ago. The fluid that came out of the lines from the master was full of sediment... old, old, old dirty brake fluid. No wonder the pedal was practically on the floor when braking.
I ran a quart of new brake fluid through the front system before it ran clear again. That said, I can't imagine the rear system is any better.

 

[sdeeter19555]

Every time I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel, it turns out to be the light at the entrance of the next tunnel.

I just replaced my front rotors and calipers about a week ago. The fluid that came out of the lines from the master was full of sediment... old, old, old dirty brake fluid. No wonder the pedal was practically on the floor when braking.
I ran a quart of new brake fluid through the front system before it ran clear again. That said, I can't imagine the rear system is any better.

You see the photos of my wheel cylinder...both were that way, so I can feel your pain. I may try to bust the bleeders on the calipers and see what I get. The booster and the master look newer.

 

[Fastback67]

I also see that you pulled the wiring for your power mirrors etc...
Me, I plan to add factory style power mirrors to mine. The mirror setup that's on there now is crap! OK for short range towing because they have sliding brackets, but outside of that they're useless. Loose and floppy... I'm constantly adjusting and retightening them all the time... A good idea, but a poorly executed design.

So what's next on your list after the brakes?
You can't stop now, your on a roll!

 

[sdeeter19555]

I pulled the door wiring because the PO hacked it off at the door jamb and installed non-power doors...if it ain't there, it's not going to burn the truck to the ground. There is a harness for the passenger's side, but not one for the driver's; you may have some wiring ahead of you. I have the passenger's side harness to the door jamming that would help you out?

I got a new windshield installed today...I moved the camper from the carport so it could be dry. It rained all day, but I have new glass!

Since it's under some cover, I plan to pull the timing cover to do the KDP and pull the AC compressor. Should only take me a couple evenings to do the KDP...doesnt look that bad. That's been the main reason I haven't driven it, want to get that handled before it causes issues...

 

[Fastback67]

KDP is still on my "To-Do" list...