Here I am

Well, I'm back...

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Harness caught fire

Need work, don’t know what to do

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Well, made a jig to bolt to the hub face...I've got between 1/4" and 3/8" of toe-in over a space of about 24 inches. That measurement is accurate, with the jig.

So that's not it...
 
Well it's inspected...

It still has a wandering issue, I will sort that out this weekend...I'm going to pull the tops of the kingpins and see if there is something obvious.

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Got some boxes mounted tonight.....got them for $25. I didn't want a cross over toolbox this go around, they take too much room and I don't plan on having much stuff with me in this truck.

These short days suck trying to get anything done in the evenings after work. I'm thinking I might cut the old latches off and see about getting the tailgate mounted.
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Some more work...

I drove it to work the other day...that's about 100 miles. Other than the quirky handling, it did fine and was actually relaxing (to me).

I did fine the yoke on the np205 loose, I looked it up an an old Chilton's and it indicated a 138 pound torque...I got around a full turn before I got to that 138.

Installed some steps I bought a while ago...that was easy.

Painted my mudflap bracket, took it off and did that while it was still above freezing.

I cut the fresh air vent door at the driver's feet, and installed that. I was going to buy one from a early 80s (they are just the slide door, no included trim), but decided to cut this one up as it had some issues. Now it won't be so drafty...

I adjusted the doors...got them straight up and down, but the driver's door needs slid back and I was running out of time...they at least seal now.
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It's tucked away until next week since the holidays are here.
 
Found a LE tailgate...had to make the top strap support nubs. Luckily those nubs are just rivets and I was able to drive them out leaving a 7/16" hole. A bolt, couple washers, spacer made out of a brass fitting, and a nut, and i have an upper strap mounting point.

Just need a strap to finish it. The gate came with one, need one for the other side.

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Decided to investigate the pump...and see if it was molded. I knew this engine had at least a govenor spring as it rev'd like my 3rd gen.

The pictures speak for themselves...anyone seen a pump with the red anti-tamper paint, specific to any builder? Red/green spring significant?

I pulled the spacer/stop to allow more movement of the pin, and spun the pin about 10 degrees to get it in better alignment. General consensus is that it's a Denny T Stage 2.

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And lastly, I installed an hour meter to keep track of hours for maintenance, installed a drop pitman arm and straightened my steering wheel out, bought a steering box brace (still needs installed), got a set of window weather stripping and felts, aligned my doors better, got a set of door handle braces, etc.
 
No notes yet, but what always makes me smile is that most comments I get are from young people...like teens and early 20s? They always say "nice old truck", most weren't even born when that truck was already hard at work!

Anyone have a link or part number for a coolant filter and coolant filter head? I'm going to be flushing things this spring, and I might as well go down that slippery slope...
 
I think since it's supposed to get cold and snowy, I might start welding/fabricating my planned winch mount and headache rack.

I also got wiring to do eventually (auxiliary rear lights). I added that fuse panel and bank of relays, already have the wire ran to the back in conduit, ordered a box to terminate it in. Essentially I'm going to tie into the rear harness (already have the splices from when I cleaned that mess up), run that signal forward, trigger a relay, and send it back for lights and trailer wiring. I also found the brake light trigger when cleaning up wiring, so I will wire in a trailer brake controller (I don't figure to use this truck hard, but if i need the trailer moved) and a 3rd brake light.
 
Donaldson is good stuff, I use their filters for oil/fuel/air.

I question the need for coolant filters & SCAs on a parent bore wet liner disposable engine, but hey.

Deeter - I commend your looking into a fusible link delete aux box. Make sure you use slow blow fuses to replace the fusible links, for the alternator & grids, at the very least. The IGN & lighting/hazard/AC circuits are adequately served with regular plug in blade fuses.
 
If it helps the water pump last longer and prevents clogging of heater core a little then it is worth it.

Needed? No! But a nice add on.:rolleyes:
 
I goobered some epoxy on my broken turn signal stalk and added some metal reinforcements in an attempt to keep it going a while longer. I need to smooth it out, paint it black, and add the dust collar to it...it's ugly, but functional. A used column will pop up one of these days (or I will change it all out for heavy duty toggle switches)...the 88-90 deal is a used item only these days. At least it's not flopping around and making things worse...

I also hate the snap-on plastic door skins. I like the utilitarian feel of the older Power Wagons. I owned a couple 74 Power Wagons at one point, so I knew steel door covers were out there. I happened onto a set for $20. From what I gather they were an early 70s product, and were available in the later 70s in the 200/300/400/600 series trucks. I ordered rubber "tee" nuts and stainless oval head screws to mount them...that will make them rattle resistant and removable.

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Voltage regulator failed...replaced with a AC Delco and it pulses.

So I ordered another, but in the meantime I put on a 20 year old ( or older) used vr from an old Dodge Power Wagon. It amazingly worked, and the voltage is steady...so a faulty new vr it is...are they all junk?
 
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