Here I am

Well, I'm back...

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Harness caught fire

Need work, don’t know what to do

Status
Not open for further replies.
Depends on where they came from. Unfortunately what you’d get today may not be up to OE snuff as it was then, but what choice do you have?
 
Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of to be truthful. Someone said buy a Mopar VR, ok spend $50 to find it's possibly the same manufacturer as any of the rest.

I did find one that is supposedly adjustable and has "made in USA" stamped on the case...that's what I have coming.
 
Make sure it’s for your system- a dual field. The only adjustables I’d ever seen were for the 60’s single field, and only for racing.
 
Make sure it’s for your system- a dual field. The only adjustables I’d ever seen were for the 60’s single field, and only for racing.

Supposedly just an externally adjustable version of the external on these trucks. Looks just like the OE, reviews were positive.
 
The only adjustable ones that I'm familiar with are the heavy duty Transpo units, and yes they do come highly rated. I may even have one of those as my spare?
I completely rewired and relocated my VR system.... haven't had a problem since.
 
Received one of the two regulators I was supposed to get...they are Transpo adjustable, but unfortunately now made in China.

20200130_151719.jpg
 
Received one of the two regulators I was supposed to get...they are Transpo adjustable, but unfortunately now made in China.

Ayuh... I spoke with a guy that sells USA made parts, and he said the same thing... Unfortunately the units are now manufactured in China or Taiwan depending on the batch.

I like the door panels by the way... Clean and simple.
 
20200215_162125.jpg
20200215_162136.jpg
20200214_073927.jpg
20200214_073921.jpg
Well, new developments...

In discussions about alternators and voltage regulators, I've determined I have a failed diode in my alternator as I can measure 32vac at the battery (yes, AC not DC)...so a PA Performance one-wire is in my future.

I dropped the trans pan, and found a lot of stuff...magnet had a lot of fuzz, a lot of sludge, a few flakes of aluminum, but no brass. This is bad enough, except that the filter had been crushed when the trans was set/dropped on the pan at some point and that in turn caused the filter to come apart...the PO had told me he just changed the fluid to Royal Purple, but clearly the pan hadn't been off in a LONG time. The fluid wasn't that bad...

I did adjustments, found the front band took five turns to get snug and the rear band took four turns to get snug...so they were loose, worn, or incorrectly adjusted. Both those were snugged to spec and backed off 2 turns.

I adjusted the kickdown adjustment (got it down to that 1-5/16" spec from the FSM, took about 3 turns) and the put about 1-1/2 turns on the line pressure.

I used a new Dorman pan for a 48RE, which gave about an inch more depth, installed a new filter, filled the pan with Schaeffer's SAT, and done. I made a removable plug for a temperature sensor...took a 9/16" bolt left over from my steering box brace install, drilled, tapped, and cut it to length.

I can't really see any difference, it's not any better but it's not really worse. I was hoping to raise the shift points about 10mph and make it a little more driveable. I might play with the kickdown linkage and see if I can make a difference.

I have a spare 727, I might try my hand a rebuilding....
 
Last edited:
Well, it must have taken time to get the fluid mixed in and affecting the clutches/bands...shifts pretty nice now, quick firm shifts. It's taken about 150 miles, but it is getting better.

20200216_173749.jpg
 
I did a little electrical work...installed a fuse block last summer when I popped a fusible link, the block was never meant to be used for the fusible links, but you do what you need to get back running. It was never complete because the fusible link failing wasn't in the plans ....relays for accessories and trailer lights were unused.

I had ran a 1-inch conduit from the engine compartment to the rear, filled that with various wire with the thought of running a trigger to the fuse panel and returning a trailer light circuit through a relay.

I installed a box at the rear to make all the tie-ins, I had previously installed pigtails on the truck's wiring when I was cleaning up the cobbled mess from the PO.

So all the wiring to the box is done, and I started installing some lights under the tailgate...I have plans of a headache rack and 7-way RV plug soon (got to build the headache rack).

20200216_173714.jpg
20200216_173634.jpg
20200216_173556.jpg
 
I ran the valves Monday...the PO must have either not known there were two clearances or only had one feeler gauge, everything was set to about 0.020"...the exhaust were spot on except on that was a little tight, all the intakes were obvious 0.010" loose.

Reused the gaskets, rear one leaked. Removed, cleaned everything, and reinstalled and now it's fine.

Made it a little less clatterly...
 
Started a winch mount and brush guard combo...go the main base done and the winch plate. I still have to cut the winch plate to width (it's only temporarily on with some 1/4" bolts) and cut side plates for the brush guard. And I have a couple tabs to fit and a couple struts to add for more strength...work in progress, not bad for an afternoon.

20200222_155513.jpg
20200222_155513.jpg
20200222_155521.jpg
20200222_155533.jpg
 
Got the winch plate cut down to width and welded onto the base, installed a couple tow loops, got the side plates drawn out (ran out of acetylene before I could cut them out).

20200223_170014.jpg
20200223_170030.jpg
20200223_170039.jpg
 
Side plates cut out...I need a new torch head, this one is about worn out.

Just need a couple hours to grind it to final shape. Notice they are bolted and tack welded in place so that I can make them more/less identical.
20200227_184909.jpg
 
Update on the transmission...I determined the kickdown cable adjustment lock was not completely locked. I adjusted and locked per specs, now it shifts 1st-2nd at around 15mph and 2nd-3rd around 30mph, and is a nice clean crisp shift.

Overall, I couldn't ask for a nicer shifting transmission (considering how it appeared to be maintained)...the Schaeffer's SAT is working well.
 
Mounted the base and winch...once it's all bolted together to show function, I'll take it off and have it blasted and painted (I'll do the body mounts at the same time)...

20200301_152745.jpg
20200301_152730.jpg
20200301_152724.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top