Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Had a 24v now i want a 12v what do look for when checking out the truck

[VHolloway]

just sold my 99 2500 4x4 24v. we looked at ford and there ok but the power stroke just does not do it for me. I wanted a 12v from the start what do I look for I don't know much about the 12v trucks the 24v they can keep them

we look at a 1994 ram 2500 2wd with 122857 on the clock for 7,995 it looked clean. MAY GO WITH STICK THIS TIME THE AUTO'S JUST DON'T HOLD UP

THANKS

 

[LVJUNIOR]

going with the stick is a good idea. Try to get a quad cab with suicide rear doors if you can find it. They are easier to build power with beccause they come with a better fuel pump. Check to see if it has been hot rodded.



The first thimg to check is the fuel pump. it is on the drivers side of the motor and will have 6 fuel lines going to it. the front most line (#1) is where you remove the delivery valve to adjust timming. If the paint is chiped off of that fuel line nut and delivery valve holder then someone has most likely been monkying with the timing.



Next look towards the back of the fuel pump for the AFC housing (there will be a small boost line running from the back of the housing to the cylinder head. Look at the 4 screws on top of the AFC housing. The factory had a break off tamper screw. If the tamper screw has been replaced most likely there has been a hot rod fuel plate installed or at very least the plate and housing location has been adjusted outside of the factory perameters. I don't like to buy other peoples hot rodded trucks becouse you never know how they treated them.



All that being said the first thing I would do once I owned it is change the timing and fuel plate.

 

[Missouri Mule]

94s are under powered (160 hp pump) look for 96 to 98(early 98) 5 spd trucks they will have the 215 hp pump, auto trans had the 180 hp pump.

Hydraulic brake booster came out in 97 and quad cabs came out in 98.



First thing you do when you get a 12 valve is make sure the Killer Dowel Pin won't take out your engine.

 

[VHolloway]

OK WILL DO thanks O what about the rearend a dana 70 or the 80

my 70 went out at and it was hell geting it fixed they tell me 80 last longer

 

[SFPADGETT]

The 2500 had the Dana 70, only the 3500 and c/c had the Dana 80. We have not had a problem with either of the Dana axles in our trucks--we change the diff fluid every spring / fall (about 15k) as we use them in commerical fleet and are loaded heavy. We use syn fluid in the diff's, "dino" oil in the crankcase--which we change every 2500 miles



Do the KDP first (Killer dowel pin) as "Mule" noted

 

[VHolloway]

WHAT IS A KDP PIN and if I get 96 or 97 truck the first owner would have did this and if not how will I know if it needs to be done

 

[Gasmasher]

The KDP is killer dowl pin. Located on front gear housing. dowl pin lines up font gear cover for alignment. Pin WILL vibrate out fall and jam on cam gear has no where to go but out aluminum front gear cover. After this happens you will leak oil bad. In order to fix problem front end of truck has to come off because your camshaft needs to come out to get gear cover off. I put off fixing mine and it bit me. :{

 

[hsmith]

It's the dowel pin that aligns the timing gear case with the block. Has a tendency to work it's way out of the block and can fall out, getting into the cam gear and causing a real mess. The fix is a tab that goes over the pin preventing failure. To make sure is the repair has been done the front cover needs to come off for visual inspection. There is also a fix some do that drills the case and utilizes a pin but the tab is the preferred fix.

 

[hsmith]

Looks like gasmasher and I posted at the same time. We are both right on with the topic.

 

[SRath]

The 2500 had the Dana 70, only the 3500 and c/c had the Dana 80. We have not had a problem with either of the Dana axles in our trucks--we change the diff fluid every spring / fall (about 15k) as we use them in commerical fleet and are loaded heavy. We use syn fluid in the diff's, "dino" oil in the crankcase--which we change every 2500 miles



Do the KDP first (Killer dowel pin) as "Mule" noted

I thought all 2500's with manual transmissions had Dana 80's? My '96 does. I thought the rear axle depended upon the transmission (manual vs. auto) on 2500's, not the body style (regular vs. crew cab).

 

[snappy]

Manual trucks have Dana 80. Both of mine do.

 

[VHolloway]

who is going to let me pull the cover off a engine before I pay for the truck

I think when i find the truck i like after we pay the the guyi'll take it over to cummins diesel and get them to check it out.

 

[FDavid]

You really can't tell if the kdp was done until you pull the front cover off. It isn't something I would lose sleep over but should be at the top of the priority list. If there is big oil leak coming from front case then walk right past it to another truck. Funny story, I bought my last 12 valve from Tennessee with 79k on the clock. Checked out the front timing case , it was nice and dry with no cracks. By the time I got to Cincinnati 5 hours later I had a nice broken timing case with oil leaking everywhere. Drove straight to TST about 45 minutes away and we JB welded it but the sudden jerk of the case when the dowel pin hit the gears tore the gasket. Needless to say I was ******.



Something else I would look for is make sure 5th gear works as the nut can vibrate off when lugged. And don't forget the TDR buyers guide Buyer's Guide