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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) bypass oil filter

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thanks for all the replies. i love pictures. ill be doning the simple method since i dont have a welder. under the hood sounds better for sanity reasons, but it will probably go on the frame to keep under the hood as clean as possible. i think if its installed in the frame rails it will stay clean enough.
 
ckelly1

i like your setup the most. can you post the parts list for your contraption. anything beyond the normal kit like extra line or fittings. please and thankyou.
 
Wondering what effect mounting the filter parallel to the ground has on its effectiveness/life? The destructions on Amsoil's site seem to indicate that is the least desirable position to mount the filter, although I agree it makes for a nice clean install.



Chris



The filter media doesn't care which way it faces. The reason it's acceptable, but not recommended, is getting all of the air out of the filter is tricky, if it even happens 100%. With the size of the filter I am not the least bit concerned if I have a little bit of air in there.
 
i am going to cut and paste some things and add pix. the luberfiner lfp9750 was made for extended drain intervals on large high hp truck engines and has a zink replenishment in it. go to luberfiner website and look it up. the base is lmb451. the base orifice hole is to large for our trucks so i solder a piece of shimstock in the fitting i use on the stock filter housing and drill a 0. 032" hole in it. i mount the filter and use a tape measure to determine the length of each hose. it would be best for you to go to a hydraulic place like aero or others and have them made of 1/4 or 3/16 hydraulic hose. the fitting on the stock filter housing is 1/8" npt. some times i get the return fitting from amsoil, make one on a lathe or drill a hole in the stock one and use a swivel fitting on it. just show the pix to the person along with the base and he will make up exactly what you need. on one pix i had a blue tape on one hose, i pulled both hoses in at the same time. i taped each end of one hose as not to get them mixed up. . the 9750 holds three quarts. at oil drain interval i do not like leaving 2 to 3 quarts of dirty oil in. we unscrew the filter and let it drain while we change oil. then screw it back on. do not change the filter until it no longer flows oil. as a filter gets used the larger holes in the filter media start to fill in and filters better at the end where it can no longer pass oil is where it works it's best. the bypass filter does not have a bypass built into the filter like a main lube has to have for safety. when the filter is full the filter simply quits flowing oil. ryder truck parts is about the best place for the luberfiner base and filter

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you have to retain the factory filter. it filters all of the oil down to about 25 microns before being applied to engine. the most wear is from around 7 micron range and the 04. 5 up trucks produce massive amounts of carbon in the oil. the bypass filter takes a very small portion of the oil ( through the 0. 032" orifice ) and filter it to about two microns. all of the oil goes through the filter several times per hour, this does two things. first the wear size particles are removed and second the oil can not hold more than about 4% carbon in suspension. the bypass filter catches enough of it to extend drain interval a little on the 04. 5 up trucks and a lot on the pre 04. 5. the problem on the 6. 7 is so bad that a detector is used to determine level of carbon. deletes need to be done to these trucks as soon as possible
 
CKelley1: I noticed you have your filter mounted on the frame. I had a dual by-pass for awhile and the sound of the oil pump drove me nuts. Do you have an oil pump sound? Bill
 
Bill,

I have my bypass on the frame and their is no noise. The small orifice and low flow doesn't transmit any noise like a full flow setup.
 
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