Buying '78 Lil Red Express Truck

[Wiredawg]

Ron,
Between my three sons and I we have owned several Power Wagons and Ramchargers from this era over the years. Sadly, no droolable Little Red Wagons made it to the stables - was heavily into off road, 4x4 goodies since the crusin' scene was under heavy scrutiny by the social do-gooders causing silly laws like not passing a point twice in 20 minutes in town without heavy revenue enhancements to the local coffers ...BUT, pictures on the garage walls...OH YEAH!
My experience with the wiring and fuse box in this series of trucks (Power Wagons and Ramchargers of 73-79) is that the fuses heat up pretty bad, especially in the top row. There is a lot of "heat corrosion" in the wires, spade connectors, as well as the fuse clips. The wires may or may not readily show the effects of heat on the insulation. The main heat points in the wiring that I have found are:
Main power wire in the firewall connector. You will notice a melted wire cavity and toasty spade connectors. High resistance = high heat. Gets worse over time.
Fuse block loose fuse clips that don't hold the fuse tight due to excess heat. Gets worse with time. Fuse block back side will show more evidence of high heat than the front side. Wires crunchy inside insulation which may look like an old, dried out spätzle noodle.
A lot of the wiring heat issues are caused by extensive use of the heater/AC HIGH fan speed and an old fan motor pulling a lot of current. The current flowing through the fan switch is prone to fry the fan switch, its plug, as well as the heater fan resistor block, and roast the fuse block. Check wiring one to two inches back at all connectors.
Any circuit that was added for aftermarket equipment that used high current will toast the associated truck circuit's connections if a relay wasn't used, so a detailed inspection is recommended.
Headlight switch connector, and switch, especially the high beam wiring.
Electric choke connector on the carb.

Good luck in your endeavor with that beautiful beast.

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking about taking the high current circuits out of the fuse box and the firewall connector and have run them through the Painless Panel. Headlights, horn, AC compressor, and fan. Going to make a wiring schematic with new circuits.

AND, I thought Mopar Power Wagons were just plain bad to the bone.

The colors and paint schemes really broke the mold.

Thanks again for the wiring tips.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Wayne M.]

Dave Marcis was always so laid back. Drove with dress shoes.

I remember going to Dover, and there amongst all the big haulers was a dually wedge truck hauling the last of the Mopars at the time, Buddy Arrington. Even though I was a Ford guy then, I had to take my hat off to a guy with that much determination.

If you watch that clip, you’ll get the whole dress shoe story.
The Arringtons are still very much involved behind the scenes today.
Who was a Mopar pioneer in ARCA and the Truck series? Bob Keselowski, Brads keselowski’s Dad.

 

[Wayne M.]

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking about taking the high current circuits out of the fuse box and the firewall connector and have run them through the Painless Panel. Headlights, horn, AC compressor, and fan. Going to make a wiring schematic with new circuits.

AND, I thought Mopar Power Wagons were just plain bad to the bone.

View attachment 115188
The colors and paint schemes really broke the mold.

Thanks again for the wiring tips.

Cheers, Ron

Indeed Ron, Chrysler hit a home run with the colors and marketing schemes of ‘69-‘71, and kept on with these trucks, and FCA was smart enough to dip into that well with the Challengers and Chargers of today.
I think updating your system with an extra fuse box, or even rewiring with ATC fuses is a good move.

 

[Wiredawg]

Indeed Ron, Chrysler hit a home run with the colors and marketing schemes of ‘69-‘71, and kept on with these trucks, and FCA was smart enough to dip into that well with the Challengers and Chargers of today.
I think updating your system with an extra fuse box, or even rewiring with ATC fuses is a good move.

Wayne, I think I'm going to determinate everything to and from the fuse block, inspect it AND all the conductors, and replace any connectors and conductors found bad. In order to keep as much factory as possible, I'm going to convert AC, blower fan, headlights output on respective switches to relay control for the actual operate circuits. It'll keep the wiring mostly stock inside, and cleaned/updated fuse panel should work fine with no high current through them. In fact, I was given a whole bag of barrel fuses, so will install 3 to 5 amp fuses to replace the 20 amp ones to support low current control circuits.

As you can see by the wooden shims in the high current fuse holders, there have been possible heating problems in the past:

I'll start working this tedious task tomorrow.

Cheers, Ron

 

[GCroyle]

Ron,

PITA but well worth the time and effort to get it right and protect LRET.

Just waiting on Dorian to take a bow and exit stage NE.

Gary

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

As you can see by the wooden shims in the high current fuse holders, there have been possible heating problems in the past:

View attachment 115198

I'll start working this tedious task tomorrow.

Cheers, Ron

Interesting little fuse (besides brand it's shorter than the others) in the Dome Stop Lps slot. Same with the A/C Heater fuse.
What does the backside and associated wiring look like on those shimmed fuses? Those are the ones that most often cause the more serious damage.

 

[Wiredawg]

Interesting little fuse (besides brand it's shorter than the others) in the Dome Stop Lps slot. Same with the A/C Heater fuse.
What does the backside and associated wiring look like on those shimmed fuses? Those are the ones that most often cause the more serious damage.

Here's the back... not too bad as far as I can see. Lower part of back is upper part of front. Gonna verify conductors on it with wiring diagram before removing them. Also need to try to get a little more slack.

I'll take more pics tomorrow of the stripped panel.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Wayne M.]

Good luck Gary!

 

[GCroyle]

Guys,

Almost a non event where we are a bit inland but the SC and NC coast did get some damage per newscast but I don't think it's a bad as it could have been. Charleston got a bit of a hit. The field reporters in Myrtle Beach area and Florence were looking high and low for stuff to report on.

I don't think I even lost any tree limbs this time.

Now Ron's just gotta sort his thingamabobdoohickey stuff out so no sparky stuff.

Gary

 

[Timd32]

I'm trashing that and would go new style prewired.

$126 for 14ckt 30001
$216 for 18ckt 30003

Might be cheaper if you look on line somewhere. No need to keep any of that stock or original.

I will loan you the correct crimp tool and provide you all the ring/fork lugs you need if you want some save a few bucks, even provide a return label for the tool when done send it back, I always have spares on hand for my techs. It not big and does not need alot of force to operate.

 

[HPSimpson]

That would be much better to install then the current circuit box, look real nice '78 Lil Red express, what you think there?

 

[Wayne M.]

Hey Tim, I REALLY LIKE that fuse box and crimp tool!
Question on the tool- does it handle the connectors with the heat shrink already on them, and will it break through the shrink on crimp?

 

[Timd32]

Hey Tim, I REALLY LIKE that fuse box and crimp tool!
Question on the tool- does it handle the connectors with the heat shrink already on them, and will it break through the shrink on crimp?

I can try it, I do the heat shrink separate just because we have it separate in rolls, but I have a few of those connectors in the mix. I'm thinking it might be ok with that exact tool, but there are a few versions of that tool that are not as nice and are really hard to crimp with. The handle is more straight. They will break thru.

I have maybe 25 of the high force ones for the field and shop, usually have 4 in the shop, plus 1 or 2 in my truck. But if you don't do this kind of stuff often I would not buy it.

I'm dropping off a truck to.get lettered won't be to the shop till after 10am will do some R&D, we have some small control panels rolling thru the shop so it's all out.

These below will wear you out doing it full time all day if you get a cheap pair. But are only $40-$60, the high force ones above are $150-$325 if you go all in high end Thomas and Betts, ours run about $170. And you can for sure find deals for them.

They are less expensive but work. We have a few in the mix, I removed them from rotation because they are really hard to crimp when they age, also they don't match what the factory uses for the product we work on. It's easier to just use the same tools they use on the assembly floor, our rework and mods fits right in.

 

[Wiredawg]

I'm trashing that and would go new style prewired.

$126 for 14ckt 30001
$216 for 18ckt 30003

Might be cheaper if you look on line somewhere. No need to keep any of that stock or original.

I will loan you the correct crimp tool and provide you all the ring/fork lugs you need if you want some save a few bucks, even provide a return label for the tool when done send it back, I always have spares on hand for my techs. It not big and does not need alot of force to operate.

View attachment 115227

View attachment 115225
View attachment 115226

Tim,

Many thanks... just ordered the 300001. I welcome your help. I actually thought my truck was turnkey, but it'll be right when it's done. I'll actually purchase one of those nice tools as I have this LRE truck project, air compressor on my truck, winch on my Jeep, and a rewire on my enclosed car hauler.

While I'm waiting on the fuse panel and materials to come in, gonna install Dynamat in the door and install the new Kicker speakers. May go ahead and install the amp and subwoofer too.

Many many thanks for the suggestions.

Cheers, Ron

 

[GCroyle]

Ron,

I'm giving a thumbs up to that fuse box and the auto set crimp tool. I bought the crimper a few years ago on cool factor from local auto parts retailer. My collection of insulated terminals is just that, a collection of whatever I bought. I'd suggest test crimping non harness wires of same gage and terminal ends that you are using and then do whatever pull test you endorse to make sure they are setting to the required crimp retention.

You're on a really good track, voltage drops will be old news.

And I bet Timd32 can advise on tuning those auto crimpers for the rest of us to get better crimps. See the adjustment wheel?

Gary

And it's a sunny morning here and cleanup on the coast is underway. Tree trimmers and linemen have jobs to do.

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

Just ordered my crimpers and heat shrink connectors. And just to keep balance in the universe, we finished staining and applying polyurethane to bbq area furniture.

Mama is happy.

Big cable reel is next. War story. When I first got married, I had cable reel furniture and my stereo/12" Black and White TV stand was boards and cinder blocks. Of course every thing stained and polyurethaned. It was actually pretty cool.

Cheers, Ron

 

[TFucili]

That's a good size cistern. 1,000 Gal?

 

[Wiredawg]

That's a good size cistern. 1,000 Gal?

1660 gallons each times 3. I need to do some work on them.... the one you see has a 6year old patch that's failing from where I was box blading drainage by it, tractor jumped, and tore a good size hole in it. On the side, the drain pipe disconnected from the rain gutter, and the last one needs to be plumbed. Great source of irrigation water.

Might have to get some laborers out to do the work until I can get back on a ladder.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Jdorfmeyer]

Hello Wiredawg, you can just slap some Flex Seal Flextape on the cistern and you'll be good to go I saw it work on TV so I'm sure it's true!

 

[Wiredawg]

Hello Wiredawg, you can just slap some Flex Seal Flextape on the cistern and you'll be good to go I saw it work on TV so I'm sure it's true!

LOL! I have a petite neice I've been trying to talk into going inside the tank, use commercial adhesive, and a square of plastic to seal it. She LOVES her Uncle Ron, but I think I've actually found the limit of her love. I used an old rubber mud flap on it before with liquid nails, so may peel off the old one and do it all over again, except maybe this time use PVC cement.

Cheers, Ron