Here I am

Buying '78 Lil Red Express Truck

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Stellantis, 520-HP twin-turbo, Hurricane engine

GPF Gas Particulate Filter

I could’ve use some of those adult beverages the other day! I am so tired of boxing and packing and moving and boxing and packing and moving and…
I’ll probably regret getting rid of some of the stuff. But right now, I’m done. Keeping all B body and E body parts though!
 
Happy 2021 Friends,

Thought I'd update you on side projects for the LRE since we plan on excursions within 100 miles of home:
1. Stock the tool box: Added basic tools, multimeter, a couple of fluids, jumper cables and FSM. My insurance covers towing, but nice to have a few items for minor issues.

20210108_105217.jpg


2. Hydraulic 4 ton bottle jack: As some LRE fans may know, 78 LRE didn't come with a spare, jack or tire tool, likely due to having different tire sizes on front and rear. Nice little spot for it in engine bay.

20210108_105230.jpg


3. OEM Spare Tire Carrier: Finall found one on Ebay actually from Dodge Dealer. Although not offered on this model, it is period correct and no drilling. Going to get steel wheel and tire sized drive tires for it. Needs sanding and painting.

20210108_105258.jpg

Still planning on dropping tank, but also exploring removing bed panels and strips so I can inspect, but not there yet.

As always, thanks for your input and following this thread.

Cheers, Ron
 
Happy 2021 Friends,

Thought I'd update you on side projects for the LRE since we plan on excursions within 100 miles of home:
1. Stock the tool box: Added basic tools, multimeter, a couple of fluids, jumper cables and FSM. My insurance covers towing, but nice to have a few items for minor issues.

View attachment 126260

2. Hydraulic 4 ton bottle jack: As some LRE fans may know, 78 LRE didn't come with a spare, jack or tire tool, likely due to having different tire sizes on front and rear. Nice little spot for it in engine bay.

View attachment 126261

3. OEM Spare Tire Carrier: Finall found one on Ebay actually from Dodge Dealer. Although not offered on this model, it is period correct and no drilling. Going to get steel wheel and tire sized drive tires for it. Needs sanding and painting.

View attachment 126262
Still planning on dropping tank, but also exploring removing bed panels and strips so I can inspect, but not there yet.

As always, thanks for your input and following this thread.

Cheers, Ron
Sounds real good to carry ouick repair stuff very good idea. Why to do want to remove the bed? Do you think there is something wrong under the bed hmm?;):cool::rolleyes:
 
Sounds real good to carry ouick repair stuff very good idea. Why to do want to remove the bed? Do you think there is something wrong under the bed hmm?;):cool::rolleyes:

Not going to remove bed, but the wood floor and metal strips holding it are removable. Two benefits: 1. I can access and repair fuel tank sending unit and replace gaskets. I get some fuel seepage from up top when I fill er up. and 2. I can put coat or two of marine polyurethane on the bottom side of the wood and another coat on the top.

20200610_214124.jpg


I'll take pics when I do this, pretty soon too.

Cheets, Ron
 
Friends,

Took some of the bed boards out and found cracked filler hose (not leaking YET), cracked fueling vent hose (leaking), and cracked tank vent hose (leaking) to roll over valve. The folks who restored the truck left those bad hoses and installed new rubber fuel line, likely cuz the old one wouldn't draw fuel to run. And there's quite a bit of junk in the fuel tank. Also, found fuel sending unit hot lead with corrosion and a few strands of wire right at the connection. AGH!:mad::mad:

20210109_135006.jpg


20210109_134201.jpg


OK, rant over, so now looking for special filler hose, 90°, 2.25" to 1.75". AGH!. Not much transition room.:mad:

So, more to come as I look for replacement fuel filler, the rest should be easy.:rolleyes:

Cheers, Ron
 
Friends,

After an exhaustive search on the Internet and over an hour at NAPA, I could not find a 2.25" to 1.75" fuel filler hose. I checked all the classic truck websites, and no luck. So, I ordered a 2" ID to 1.75" ID exhaust reducer and have it welded to the steel 2" ID filler tube, allowing me to use 2" fuel filler hose to connect to the 1.75" OD filler pipe on the tank. Boy, what a job!

As always, happy to hear suggestions from the gallery.

Cheers, Ron
 
You can always look at this way no major rust expose that i can see, hoses shot after 43 years not bad at all. Looks pretty good and the floor came up rather easy that's usual half the battle. Good job Ron your doing great remember your health period.!:p:D
 

Homer,
Thanks SO much! These are the parts I need

1. This rubber hose will fit over the metal 2 1/4" filler tube (get about 6" length
2-1/4" Inch Thermoid 7318 SAE-30r7 Fuel Fill Hose 16731822503 (fillernecksupply.com)

2. This metal tube will reduce 2 1/4" hose to 1.75" hose
2.25" to 1.75" Inch Hose Joiner Reducer / Stepped coupling 57mm to 44mm (fillernecksupply.com)

3. this 90' 1 3/4" hose will now connect the reduced filler 1 3/4" to the 1 3/4" tank tube.
1.75 90 Degree Gates Fuel Fill Elbow 24716 1-3/4" I.D. (fillernecksupply.com)

Thank You Very Much again... All my searches never found this site.

Che-ers, Ron
 
Last edited:
Howdy Friends,

It's blustery cold down here (36°F) and raining. Chili in the shop at 55°, but not using my propane or jet engine kerosene heater with gas fumes. Not terrible, but better to be safe.

I bench tested the fuel sending unit with a multi-meter using OHM setting, and found several dead open spots, and got some variable readings jiggling the float arm. At first, started looking for replacement, then decided to examine it. There are three bendable tabs holding a semicircle case on. I popped it off and observed a copper contact on the rotator arm that contacts a metal strip inside the semicircle cover. I carefully adjusted (bent) the contact out and put 'er back together. Under test with ohm meter, she tested good, and nothing I could do jiggling would get it to go open.

Ultimate test, I reconnected to the truck, turned ignition to run, and tested full range empty to full, complete success.

Sorry I didn't take pics of the surgery, but ran out of hands and didn't want the sending unit to come completely apart.

20210110_124445.jpg


This next week gonna drain and clean the tank and remove the rest of the bed boards for cleaning, light sanding, and more coats of Marine Spar. I'm still assessing the battery connector to the sending unit, with frayed wire right at the connector. I'm going to look at replacement cap connectors and see what I come up with. Best choice is cut out, and replace with a mechanical/solder butt connector for the replacement cap connector.

Thanks again Homer for steering me to the fuel filler site. Not only is TDR golden for Ram turbo diesels, but many other topics too, like my prize LRE.

Cheers, Ron
 
Homer,
Thanks SO much! These are the parts I need

1. This rubber hose will fit over the metal 2 1/4" filler tube (get about 6" length
2-1/4" Inch Thermoid 7318 SAE-30r7 Fuel Fill Hose 16731822503 (fillernecksupply.com)

2. This metal tube will reduce 2 1/4" hose to 1.75" hose
2.25" to 1.75" Inch Hose Joiner Reducer / Stepped coupling 57mm to 44mm (fillernecksupply.com)

3. this 90' 1 3/4" hose will now connect the reduced filler 1 3/4" to the 1 3/4" tank tube.
1.75 90 Degree Gates Fuel Fill Elbow 24716 1-3/4" I.D. (fillernecksupply.com)

Thank You Very Much again... All my searches never found this site.

Che-ers, Ron
Ron, Sorry to report wasn't Homer, somebody from Arizona David C!:confused:
 
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