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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Batterys going dead after a month! Help!

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Interstate batteries are 5 years old. 2 months ago I filled them with distilled water and recharged them to 100%. They last about 3 weeks to a month of normal driving with the few daily start-ups. At 2-3 weeks on the previous charge given, batteries sound drained & labor to turnover engine at start-up. Yesterday, after truck sat for 2 days, tried to start and batteries barely turned engine over. Put a charge on them overnight and its like I have brand new batteries again. :confused:

Seems like I have more than a bad battery problem. Almost like somewhere throughout truck that a voltage is slowly being drained off the batteries but not enough that the alternator can't make it up with the daily driving that I do. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Gabe
 
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Remove the 140A alternator fuse in the PDC and see if the drain still occurs. If not, your alternator has a bad diode that's draining the batteries.
 
also take a volt meter and check the voltage between the post then check the voltage from the positive post to say the exhause manifild. the voltage should be the EXACT same. if its not there is bad ground somewhere and that can prevent them from charging. also might be a bad cable from the battery to the starter.



I jsut rewired a truck this weekend with similar problems even after NEW batteries were installed.
 
With 5 year old batteries they should be load tested which is free at any battery shop.

Plus what everyone else said.
 
Volt meter is at 14v running. Voltage off the battery posts(engine off)is 12. 6v, same to the manifold with the ground. I will remove that 140A fuse and see where that gets me. Do I leave that fuse out until I stop noticing voltage drops?
 
prob the batteries then. sounds like the lead plates are starting to scale off and settle at the bottom of the batteries. if you have an autozone, napa, advanced they will test them in the truck or do a bench test free of charge.
 
Volt meter is at 14v running. Voltage off the battery posts(engine off)is 12. 6v, same to the manifold with the ground. I will remove that 140A fuse and see where that gets me. Do I leave that fuse out until I stop noticing voltage drops?



Leave it out for a day or two; the alternator won't charge the batteries without the fuse in place. If the voltage stays steady, it's the alternator; a decent shop can connect an oscilloscope and show the bad diode. If the voltage drops a lot (2-3 volts), it's a battery or both of them.
 
I fought this same problem for a very very long time and it ended up being the light in the glovebox was staying on. Open your glove box and immediately touch the light bulb. If it is still cool look somewhere else. If it burns your finger and makes you cuss then you have found the problem. I pulled the bulb in mine and the problem went away
 
I fought this same problem for a very very long time and it ended up being the light in the glovebox was staying on. Open your glove box and immediately touch the light bulb. If it is still cool look somewhere else. If it burns your finger and makes you cuss then you have found the problem. I pulled the bulb in mine and the problem went away



how long did that bulb take to drain both batteries?
 
wow i am supprised... i would have thought it would have taken weeks. i left my cargo and dome light and hood light on all night and a good part of the next day and she started right up like a full charge.



i do have deep cycle (yellow top) optimas though, that might be why...
 
how long have you had yours? mine are a little over a year old and i love them! they seem to be stronger over time compaired to the interstate batteries that i use to use...
 
I have had them in since December. I had Red Tops before but went with the Yellow Tops this time because I have 2 winches, 2 radios and a bunch of off-road lights. They run great and they start the truck very well in 120 degree and sub-zero temperatures. My hunt last year it was 5 degrees in town and after sitting in th parking lot all night not plugged in, they fired the truck right up. we even left it sit for 3 hours in -15 degrees and no problems
 
Just checking back with you guys to replace my interstate batteries(second set) going on my third! I removed my 120A Gen fuse and drove it for 3 days, avg. 3-4 starts per day. Voltage went from 12. 6v to 12. 1v over the few days. Batteries were tired after the end of the third day into the fourth. Installed the fuse on the fourth day and put solid 250 miles straight run time on the engine. Voltage was at 12. 4v after mileage and started up strong the following morning. So, Yellow Tops, Optimas? My interstates last 5 or six years, do optimas last any longer?
 
I think I replaced my OEMs at 5 or 6 years with red top Optimas which are still going strong 6-7 years later. I don't see any indication that they're getting weak.

Read up here about the different Optimas. Red tops are designed for starting applications (high current draw to start, then top off again). The blue tops are designed for deep discharge cycles (marine usage, trolling motors, &cet. The yellow tops are a compromise between the two and don't necessarily handle either usage very well, from what I've read. Five or more years back I used to drive all over the eastern US. Now I'm lucky if I fill the tank once every two months. And the red tops just keep on keepin' on.

It's a '98 12V, took delivery 10/8/97. Original alternator, replaced the starter contacts once. Replaced the 140A alternator fuse once when I shorted the output stud years back.

If Optima (or whoever bought them) changed manufacturing processes since then, the present supply of batteries may behave differently. So do read up on them. But if you are 'constantly' replacing Interstate batteries, stop using them.

Also, one other point, some battery designs are more susceptible to vibration while other are less susceptible. For example, absorbed glass material (AGM) batteries are best in motorcycles and lawn equipment where there's a lot of vibration; 'older' diesels probably generate life-shortening vibration as well.

[EDIT: I had yellow and blue switched; it is correct now. ]
 
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Drain ? ?

Hope I did not miss it on the read thru. Have you done a drain test ? Turn everything off and do an amp draw reading. If you have anything that runs (like a clock) even when the key is off you would have to disconnect power for the duration of the test.
 
Red tops last the longest under "regular" starting conditions. Mine are about 8 and 6 years old. If you run a lot of accessories, go with the yellows. If you need blues, you have bigger problems. You need to be more concerned if you have enough life vests for your passengers. LOL! Please keep us updated. Good luck
 
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