Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fluidampr

[Joe Mc]

Just received new dampner. Fluidampr is much beefier than OEM, and weights 24. 2 # - original weights 14. 4 # - that's on a bathroom scale. It's about an 1/8" larger in diameter and about 3/8" thicker! Oo. Oh and it's made in the good ol` US of A, not Mexico - no offense intended . . .

 

[GDMRTN]

I'm curious to know if you notice any difference in engine vibration.

 

[rweis]

You can use a RASP IF your very careful about clearances. Tight fit, but can be done. I did mine.



Bob Weis

 

[Joe Mc]

I'm curious to know if you notice any difference in engine vibration.

Me too. I'll definitly do a follow-up post after install . . .

 

[BILLVO]

I didn't have a vibration but it really made a big difference in smoothing down my lope at idle with big injectors. So it should eliminate minor vibrations quite well.

 

[rweis]

IF you ever want to dynamically balance your crank DO NOT get rid of your OEM balancer.



My local "real" auto parts store is really a machine shop with a counter. I asked him about the fluid dampner before I got mine. He said if I ever wanted to dynamically balance the crank it is impossible to dynamically balance it with the FluiDamper. He also said it would take a few minutes for the fluid to warm up depending on the OAT. If the OAT is cool to cold do not immediately drive the truck (ie higher rpm) until the fluid has a chance to redistribute, or the balance of the crank will be worse because the fluid settles to the lower portion of the balancer overnight. Once the fluid redistributes, then it smoothes out. Basically understand what the balancer is doing and keep it in mind.



Bob Weis

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

People often confuse the true purpose of the harmonic damper. . . it has little to do with engine balance (except for externally balanced engines, in which case it serves two functions). The purpose of the harmonic damper is to counteract the twisting and rebounding of the crankshaft due to firing of the front cylinders. . . the combustion pulses make the crank "ring" (vibrate torsionally) at various specific RPMs. This is more of an issue for inline 6 engines due to the long crank. When a damper goes bad it's murder on rod bearings and will likely break the crank.



Stock dampers mainly address the RPM at which the harmonics are strongest within the normal operating RPM range, whereas the fluidampr helps quell 2nd and 3rd order harmonics as well (mathematical multiples of the base frequency). . . basically covers the full RPM band better. The stock damper is a compromise. As you may recall Cummins says there is a specific engine speed (around 4300 RPM?)where vibes are the worst and can cause major damage, likely because the firing pulses at that speed best matches the cranks' natural ringing frequency. The stock damper isn't effective at that RPM since it's outside the normal operating RPM range. The Fluidampr probably does a much better job at that critical RPM.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Read Vaughn post. It is right on the money. The Cummins is internally balanced. The balancer is really a damper. That's why the rubber ring is on the OEM one. It is there to absorb shock & pulses.



I have had a Fluidampr on the truck for about a year now. Right off the bat I noticed a new "smoothness" through out. From idle to redline. The engine seems to rev easier too. It other words I am at 2200 rpms and I don't notice it. With the OEM balancer I'd know it at 2000 rpms.



It is tough to explain but imagine your engine, trans and leaf springs are all on super, super soft mounts. It feels like all vibration is gone w/ the new Fluidampr.



One of the best mods I have done to the truck.





If you plan on reving up your truck, you should plan on pinning the Fluidampr to the crank snount when you install it. Remember the gassers all have a keyway and a BIG bolt to secure the damper to the crank. The Cummins is a bolt on.



TDR member "Hammer" can shed more light on reasons for pinning.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Pinning kit....

TDR member "Hammer" on pinning:



"Now there is a statement made by someone who doesn't even know why they want them pinned at all. Please make sure son, since you claim to be one of the drag race guys, to NOT, repeat NOT, be in the other lane near me twisting your truck rpms into submission without a pinned dampr. I am guessing that you never have seen the damage of a unpinned dampr at high rpms then,correct?. On a truck which sees more normal RPM ranges then yes, I would agree that pinning them may be overkill. HOWEVER, one that is about to be twisted into rpm submission, using the let the parts hit the floor attitude, then if your not pinned you could be a accident waiting to happen. I have pinned Fluidamprs on motors that have seen way more rpms than our diesel run and know what could happen and does when the pinning isn't done.



So a complete and udder waste of time, nope,mine being pinned has certainly brought me confidence to see the tach buried on a regular basis. I do know that when the guys did mine in the truck, they had lots of kind words for how much fun the job was. No one said it was easy,but then again,what worthwhile engine modification that you have done that ensures your safety and the engines longevity would be easy?... ... ... "



PS: I didn't pin mine becuse I don't rev it up.

 

[Joe Mc]

OK here's the verdict . . . It smoothed things out very nicely and the engine seems to rev a bit quicker. At speed it's smooth as silk the higher the rpm/speed the more you don't notice the speed/rpm . . . could be a problem with the long arm of the law - guess that's why there's gages? ? ?



MHO - $$$ well spent.

 

[SFrey]

there is no waiting for the fluid inside to warm up. it has the same viscosity at-20 or +100 degrees. That is a big fluid dampr myth. click on link & look @ #3 Fluidampr® Harmonic Dampers Made in U. S. A.



scot

 

[RJWEST]

4k miles with fluid damper. ( 3500 miles with TC ). my impressions

Made quite a difference in transmission ' growl ' under load
( 6 speed ), Changes the vibration noise from a low freq to a quitter hgh freq noise ( I think ) may be just hearing the engine
noise which was masked by the trans noise. ,
Much quitter at road speeds.

Do get some low rpm growl from the trans when it warms up,
just coming after clutch engage at low rpm, but no way like before fluidamper install... . Should help longivity of trans,

Do have some rattle when shuting down, ? clutch or dual mass springs??

When unloaded," NICE": with the Smarty on fuel saver and the
fluidamper, Feels/sounds like a sports car,

Install was easy, except torquing the bolts to fluidamper specs.
Tryed to use trans in gear to torque bolts, clutch slipped before
torqued to spec ( should have used direct gear instead of 2nd )
my mistake, did get above 130 lbft, should be enough for
for std hp, ( did not pin the fluidamper )

Did/Do have 1 concern, right after install, I had some Black,
gooey stuff stuck to the track bar, looked like it dripped from the fluidamper ( not sure ). been checking since, no re-occurance


Bottom line, It works... . as advertised... Great for std shift. .

 

[SpicyJam]

I am pinned and glad I did it. I really did not notice much diff when I was a stick or even when I changed to an auto. However when I took my old balancer off I did look at the indexing marks, and man was I out of speck, to the point where it was about ready to come apart.

 

[Cummins724]

I agree that the Fluidamper was a great mod, very noticeable difference in vibration. I would do it again for sure.

 

[SAndreasen]

Did/Do have 1 concern, right after install, I had some Black,

gooey stuff stuck to the track bar, looked like it dripped from the fluidamper ( not sure ). been checking since, no re-occurance



this was my main concern about going to a fluid damper , have you been able to tell if it was in fact leaking?

 

[RJWEST]

Only 1 occurance , right after install ( about 100 miles ).

Like I said, was not sure if it was from the Fluidamper,
But I do keep the Engine and underside clean ( oil vent plumbed
back behind Axle ), and I had not seen anything like this before.

Will do another inspection ( through) and report back,

 

[JFaughn]

Would like to here some spec. s , at what levels of HP & RPM are you guys running & thinking that this mod is good ?
I was planning to pin my stock unit , every day driver , not competing , just longevity & millage are my main interests , I've read that it may not be money well spent until some higher HPs & RPMs , would like some up dates ?
Thanks John

 

[AFoulk]

I think if you plan on keeping it under 4k rpms, the pin kit isn't really necessary.

 

[JFaughn]

I was asking about using the fluid dampener , I wanted to pin no mater if I kept the stock unit of added , I want to put timing tape & pointer on , so have the pin makes it work with that idea .

 

[OPoole]

If you are guy that likes Overkill pin it the pin kit is cheap. Just takes a few mins to install.