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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Glacier Diesel Fuel Boss lift pump issue and fix

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Hi all,



About a 10 months ago I upgraded my lift pump to a mechanical pump and loved it for the most part until just recently I had a issue where my gage would go to zero at idle and then back up to 16-20 while driving, then Friday it would only get up to 10 and still nothing at idle, at first I figured my gage was taking a dump but I hooked a oil PSI gage to it and confirmed the gage was reading correctly



Any how I ended up pulling the Bypass Valve apart and sure enough there was some debris in it, after I clean it out it still did the same thing so I checked it again and pulled it apart again still nothing, the third time I blew it all out and then made sure the piston in it moved a few dozen times with a screwdriver and seems like the problem is solved 15-17 psi at idle and 16-20 WOT





so if anyone has this issue hope this helps you out



Regards,
 
Is there any kind of a screen on the inlet to keep junk out of the regulator? Seems like if it's getting that far it could get into the pump...
I like the idea of a mechanical pump but not real fond of losing my extra filtration.
 
Hi,

The Bypass valve is actually on the return to tank side, most of the debris looked like teflon tape pieces, likely from when I put the system together as there was a lot of fittings as I had to customize the kit to leave my carter on the frame rail.

The system still retains the factory filter, other than this most likely self induced issue I am very pleased with it vs. the intank and frame rail combo the truck had

Regards,
 
I purchased a Fuel Boss about 6 years ago and it is still sitting hear in the box. Before I was going to install it I did the big line relocate to the frame and has been fine for the last 6 years. Now under load the pressure fluctuates constantly from 14 to 30lbs. May be time to install the Fuel Boss. Would appreciate any tips or problems you had with your install especially connecting it with the frame mounted pump.

Thanks,
 
Hi,



Was not too bad, my installation had issues mainly due to my truck having both a frame mounted pump and the in-tank conversion.



Hooking to the frame lift pump was not too bad, just make sure you leave room to remove the check valve as mine is too close to the tank and I have to flip it over the frame rail to do take it off completely. You can run this without the electric pump as mine has been dead for 6 months (kits allows you to use your original pump as emergency back-up). You may want to make sure you have enough line as the kits were designed for the pump in the original engine mounted location, as that was what Richard had told me when I ordered it



Other than it’s a lot of re-plumbing, it is not too bad to install, much nicer than the mess I had and would do again if I ever buy another truck of this era



Also you will want to invest in a few hose to frame clamps as you will want to fix some of the locations especially by the pump in the engine compartment (I just sheet metal screwed them to the front cross member with some self tapping screws)



Good luck,
 
Thanks Jim, will probably get to it in a couple of weeks. Have a trip to the dunes next week so not enough time to install now. Will switch out to my spare pump for now. Hope you don't mind if I hit you up for any questions when I get into it.
 
Hi again,

Feel Free to ask, I'm not on this site all the time, but the instructions were very good and he has them on line:

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/showpages.asp?pid=1008

worst thing is keeping everything straight and knowing which line goes to where so map it out how you want it and label if you can will help, also double check all the connections as it took a bit to prime mine, ended up being a loose connection sucking air

Good luck let us all know how it went,
 
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