Nick's new Ram 2500

[NIsaacs]

The problem I see with the screw is the thread count - it’s pretty coarse. Just screwing it into the pan doesn’t give much thread contact area. If you used an awl to make the hole, it would push metal up to give more contact area, but I’d be afraid of wearing the hole out with a couple of removals. Myself, I’d still TIG a plug into it, but that’s just me. Not everyone has a TIG welder…

Maybe I should just quit messing around and get one of these pans. Anyone use one, is the quality okay?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-265-870

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/rfe-68-service.270433/page-4#post-2677535

 

[Topzide]

@NIsaacs, The hole was just big enough to screw the threads into the pan with a good gskt material on the bottom and no leaks or seeps! Guess it depends on the install. I would like a larger opening and might put in a bung one of these days.

 

[crispyboy]

I bought a plastic mortar mixing pan at the local big box store. It is big enough to eliminate problems changing transmission fluids going everywhere.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I ran the MagHytec double deep on my 68RFE in my 11 HO DRW. A t least 50k on the AMZ/OIL when I removed the pan to trade truck. All I did was drain the pan and remove it. I did not pour out the fluid. Impressive for towing 29k combined for over 1/2 the miles.

 

[kthaxton]

I've had some B&M plug kits work fine, and others leak. Now, I use them with a Dorman rubber lined steel gasket. I bought this kit and used the one in the top center with the rubber ID. Works perfect.

https://www.autozone.com/external-e...an-autograde-m14-gasket-assortment/638849_0_0

 

[NIsaacs]

I've had some B&M plug kits work fine, and others leak. Now, I use them with a Dorman rubber lined steel gasket. I bought this kit and used the one in the top center with the rubber ID. Works perfect.

https://www.autozone.com/external-e...an-autograde-m14-gasket-assortment/638849_0_0

Thank you, I picked up one of those at Napa with the bung. I just changed the fluid, it was due in my opinion, (29k miles). The pan had a reusable gasket so I didn't need this one. I also did not install the steel nipple in the filter. It was super tight so I left the plastic one alone, also reused the pump/pan filter seal. I only got 8 qts of fluid so far, checked in neutral after a few times of drive/reverse. Halfway between cold and hot.

The fluid looked fine but the magnets had about an 1/8" of fuzz on all of them, with a small amount of shinny flecks in the pan.

 

[Ozymandias]

First change at the transmission there is always some stuff in the pan.
I expect the next time you have a lot less debris in the pan and on the magnet.

 

[NIsaacs]

Power steering fluid change is next. Any tips on how to?

Went ahead and syphoned out the reservoir, about a cup and added the rest to the transmission. Total of 10 qts now. Seems to be stabilized just above the cold mark.

 

[Cummins12V98]

68RFE is EASY to do a Complete Fluid Exchange!!!

 

[NIsaacs]

Anyone ever have an issue with the hood strut/studs wearing. I am getting a hood clunk on bad roads and loaded. The noise can be reproduced my opening the hood and shaking it up and down. The wear is on the front side, at the fender. The rear, at the hinge is tight. I need to pull the strut off and check the stud. The fender stud is replaceable but the rear stud is part of the hinge.

 

[AH64ID]

Power steering fluid change is next. Any tips on how to?

I just suck it out of the reservoir, refill, run and repeat. I plan to do that every 30K miles with the trans fluid change. That’s going to keep the fluid fresh even if you don’t get it all.

 

[Ozymandias]

I think that's to much. It doesn't age so fast and is strictly hydraulic fluid like in an excavator.
100k would be my suggestion here.

 

[AH64ID]

I think that's to much. It doesn't age so fast and is strictly hydraulic fluid like in an excavator.
100k would be my suggestion here.

But it gets hot, especially with a lot of slow speed driving where you use the steering and/or braking a lot.

It’s just ATF, and doesn’t hold much. Cheap and easy to change.

 

[NIsaacs]

But it get hot, especially with a lot of slow speed driving where you use the steering and/or braking a lot.

It’s just ATF, and doesn’t hold much. Cheap and easy to change.

I agree, it is only about a cup on about a 1 quart system, so for sure, only a partial change.

 

[Topzide]

@NIsaacs, The stud on hinge could be replaced without replacing the hinge. It would involve drilling the stud loose from hinge and then replacing by either a stud and nut or finding a style that is pressed in and set like an old school rivet. Sorry to hear that you're dealing with a noise that shouldn't be happening! Hope you can get it figured out.

 

[kthaxton]

I just suck it out of the reservoir, refill, run and repeat. I plan to do that every 30K miles with the trans fluid change. That’s going to keep the fluid fresh even if you don’t get it all.

A partial fluid replacement?!!!!! Ahhhh lordy!

 

[NIsaacs]

I pulled the struts off the studs, both sides and no wear at all, still painted. So I guess struts are in order. Not sure I want new Mopar ones, $75-100 for 2 years use.

Lift Supports Depot are $40 per set, 5 year warranty but about a month out.

Ordered some bling Couldn't pass up the price, OEM.

#ad

 

[AH64ID]

Ordered some bling Couldn't pass up the price, OEM.

#ad

I didn’t think there was an OEM finned cover the the 19+ trucks??

 

[NIsaacs]

I didn’t think there was an OEM finned cover the the 19+ trucks??

I didn't say it quite right

OEM as in AAM/Mopar.

 

[AH64ID]

I didn't say it quite right

OEM as in AAM/Mopar.

I know that, are you sure it will fit your trucks axle? The only ones I’ve seen that are OEM/Mopar are for the older axles.

Did you buy it at Just Differentials? The price is awesome, but it doesn’t fit 19+ axles. Even then I don’t know about clearance on the 14-18 2500’s with the 5 link suspension.