Nick's new Ram 2500

[bcbender]

Made a mess twice now so I will also try it out (front first)!

 

[NIsaacs]

Changed out my rear axle oil and installed a drain plug (1/4" NPT). Probably should get a allen head plug so it is more flush. It is pretty well protected by the ribs. The housing is at least 5/16" thick so I got some good threads.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Personally I like to look at my gears every time.

 

[NIsaacs]

Personally I like to look at my gears every time.

I used to too, but not with this one. A real pain to remove the cover on the 2500. Plus, I have never seen anything amiss in all my other trucks. The fill plug magnet will tell me if I need to inspect it further. It looked good this time around with just a little fuzz on the magnet.

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[Cummins12V98]

Understood!!!

 

[NIsaacs]

Changed out the cab filter, 2 years old is too long for my travels, will need to change yearly. Appears the Napa is a much better filter than OEM, if pleats mater. Picked up 2 quarts of Mopar B/W t-case fluid, $44.75 each

 

[Cummins12V98]

Changed out the cab filter, 2 years old is too long for my travels, will need to change yearly. Appears the Napa is a much better filter than OEM, if pleats mater. Picked up 2 quarts of Mopar B/W t-case fluid, $44.75 each

View attachment 137209 View attachment 137210

DUDE!!! That's insane!!! Let me know when you need more I will sell you AMZ/OIL ATF for less than 1/3 that.

 

[AH64ID]

Changed out the cab filter, 2 years old is too long for my travels, will need to change yearly.

Yeah cabin air filters don’t last that long. I’m already on my 2nd in 10K miles and 8 months.

Ram claims it’s a 12K mile service interval, but mine never last that long.

 

[Ozymandias]

I usually switched them once a year in fall.
Together with the wiper blades.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I had to cut mine in as the 15's for some dumb reason did not have them even on a LongHorn. Guess I should check mine as it's been at least two years.

 

[Cummins2014]

I had to cut mine in as the 15's for some dumb reason did not have them even on a LongHorn. Guess I should check mine as it's been at least two years.

I'm a bit behind on my cabin filter if it has one , probably the same as your 2015 need to add one .

 

[Ozymandias]

I'm a bit behind on my cabin filter if it has one , probably the same as your 2015 need to add one .

Check behind glovebox if you have one or not.
That's the weird thing that maybe eben today some truck have it, most, but some still leave the factory without for whatever reason.

 

[NIsaacs]

Back on this dedicated haul this weekend. 12.5k miles on it so getting broke in. Mileage is 12.6 display, 12.3 math. Thats dang good. This is with the heavy dump trailer too, about 15,750 empty. This might even be with a slight winter blend fuel, I don't think it is full #2 until 4-1.

7th year on this haul. Fuel mileage dropped and the display is off more, 27k miles on the truck. 12.4 and 12.6 display, 11.54 and 11.88 math, this is for two days, kinda breezy.

Looks like one more year will mostly wrap it up at this location. I need to find some closer, this haul is too expensive.

Fuel is $3.81 at the Maverick on I-40 (Holbrook) v/s $ 4.39 here in Snowflake. Not buying local for a few days

 

[NIsaacs]

Changed the t-case fluid, it was very dark red. 30k recommended, I am at 28k. I think I will change out the transmission fluid soon, dread that. Recommended is 60k but...

What do you guys think about using a roofing screw for a drain plug? Will the rubber washer stand up to ATF? What is EPDM rubber? Some descriptions say Neoprene.

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[Topzide]

@NIsaacs, Why not drop the pan and add the B&M drain plug kit or just have a bung welded in? I wouldn't trust a roofing screw to hold on the bumpy trails you go through the pits on! I added the B&M to my 68RFE and haven't had an issue. Been about 40K since it was installed. If my TIG welding skills were better, would've added a bung. But maybe as I get more practice in, that'll be a choice down the road. Either way, it's much better the ATF in the face deal on the last bolt!

 

[NIsaacs]

@NIsaacs, Why not drop the pan and add the B&M drain plug kit or just have a bung welded in? I wouldn't trust a roofing screw to hold on the bumpy trails you go through the pits on! I added the B&M to my 68RFE and haven't had an issue. Been about 40K since it was installed. If my TIG welding skills were better, would've added a bung. But maybe as I get more practice in, that'll be a choice down the road. Either way, it's much better the ATF in the face deal on the last bolt!

Okay, like this? I wanted to avoid trying to weld a bung in.

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[bcbender]

Every one of those B&M kits I've installed have leaked... finally on my Chevelle, I welded in a bung and put a plug with a crush washer in to solve that issue. Just a little more work to tig it in,

JM2C on my experience with them over the years.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Okay, like this? I wanted to avoid trying to weld a bung in.

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I used that on my 98 12V and it constantly weeped. Now it would work well if you welded it to the pan. Screw pictured above, NO WAY!!!!!!!

 

[NIsaacs]

Every one of those B&M kits I've installed have leaked... finally on my Chevelle, I welded in a bung and put a plug with a crush washer in to solve that issue. Just a little more work to tig it in,

JM2C on my experience with them over the years.

I have the same problem with my dump trailers plastic tanks. I have two of those bulkhead fittings with plastic washers and they both seep.

12v, why not the screw? Seems simple enough. Can't imagine it coming loose and the rubber washer won't leak. I know it seems funky but is it really? Ya know, thinking outside the box

 

[BSeyler]

The problem I see with the screw is the thread count - it’s pretty coarse. Just screwing it into the pan doesn’t give much thread contact area. If you used an awl to make the hole, it would push metal up to give more contact area, but I’d be afraid of wearing the hole out with a couple of removals. Myself, I’d still TIG a plug into it, but that’s just me. Not everyone has a TIG welder…