Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) TPS: Where is the clock position of the electrical plug on the installed TPS at?

[RHestand]

I just inst. a new one (After breaking my original one on my 98 12 valve) and the only way I could get it to work was to position it pointing at about 10 o'clock. In that position it almost hits my throttle cable. It's been a while since I took mine off, but it seems to me my old one was pointing at about 2 o'clock? Also I pulled up a picture of one on the internet and it also looked like it pointing at about 2 o'clock??

Another question. In checking it with my ulm? gauge with the throttle closed, it showed 1. 8 volts instead of . 8 to 1. 2 volts that it should be at. I took it for a ten mile freeway test run, and it seems to shift fine. Does anyone think the 1. 8 volt setting will cause any problems? Aren't all the TPS units the same from 1994 through early 98 the same?

Any ideas or info. on these questions will be much appreciated.

TIA, Ray

PS- I tried doing a TDR search on these questions, but got nothing.

 

[Axtell3]

Goerend has a u tube video showing the proper orientation.

I think they are all supposed to run the same resistance and voltage, there are differences in the orientation of the slot for older trucks. ( I think the ve pump)

 

[RHestand]

Axtell3,
Thanks so much for the tip about the Goerend TPS video, on YouTube. It answered a lot of my questions.
I was able to reorient my TPS electrical connector to the 4 o'clock position just like the one in the video, but still could not get the idle voltage down to the spec. of . 8 to 1. 2. The lowest I could get it was 1. 73 volts?? After this last change I took it for another freeway test drive and it seems about the same as my last test drive which was still good.
One very important thing that I did pickup on in the video, was the TPS spacer bracket that is mounted on the main accelerator linkage backing plate. It's held on with three short screws. Mine does not have this (My TPS is just held onto the backing plate with two long screws, with no spacer. ) which I'm sure was the reason that I pushed the guts out of two new TPS units previously. When I tried to tighten the two bolts the activation blade (??) popped the center right out of them. My 98 acc. backing plate is only drilled and tapped with two holes for the two long screws that go through the TPS, and into the backing plate. As of now I can only tighten them finger tight (With a drop of Lock-Tight) until I find out what I need to secure it in there properly.
If any of you guys with a 98 12 valve would look at yours and tell me what I'm missing, it would be much appreciated.
TIA, Ray

 

[Axtell3]

Mine is different than the one in the video, it's a 2 piece aluminum casting, held on with three screws. The oute part is held to the inner with the 2 longer screws and a steel strap goes across the front of the tps also. I'll see if I can pull up an image for you.

 

[Axtell3]

This shows the part that attaches to the plate, but not the outer piece or the tps

 

[mwilson]

Is #2 what is missing from yours??? I used my '97 for reference but it should be the same.....

Mike.

 

[RHestand]

Axtell3,
Thanks again for your help.
I suspect mine also is different than the one in the video?
I do think I have the strap you refer to. My strap is C shaped, about 4. 5 in. top to bottom and has three holes. Two for the long screws that go through the TPS and one for the male plastic wiring harness support to plug into. I suspect what might be missing on mine is the two pc. alum. casting you refer to. ??
In your image it looks like part #18 is what my two long screws, screw into and I suspect what I need is the two pc. alum. castings that are not shown. Mine has to have some kind of rigged mounting support. The way mine is now, it's just kind of floating out on the end of the 3" screws that are just finger tight.
If I can't get more info. online this morning, I'll go to the local Dodge dealer (They're usually not very helpful on small parts. ) and maybe get to look at a few pictures.
Ray

 

[RHestand]

Axtell3,

Thanks again for your help.

I suspect mine also is different than the one in the video?

I do think I have the strap you refer to. My strap is C shaped, about 4. 5 in. top to bottom and has three holes. Two for the long screws that go through the TPS and one for the male plastic wiring harness support to plug into. I suspect what might be missing on mine is the two pc. alum. casting you refer to. ??

In your image it looks like part #18 is what my two long screws, screw into and I suspect what I need is the two pc. alum. castings that are not shown. Mine has to have some kind of rigged mounting support. The way mine is now, it's just kind of floating out on the end of the 3" screws that are just finger tight.

If I can't get more info. online this morning, I'll go to the local Dodge dealer (They're usually not very helpful on small parts. ) and maybe get to look at a few pictures.

Ray

 

[RHestand]

Thanks Mike,
As soon as it's light outside I'll go out and look.
If my memory serves, it seems like I do have something like #2 in there, but it doesn't stick out far enough to make contact with the backside of the TPS. I think it lacks about 3/4"?
I'll get back to you on that.
Thanks again, Ray

 

[mwilson]

Here is a bigger shot of what Axtell posted and my shot again all on the same post, may gvie some clarity for you.

 

[RHestand]

Here is a bigger shot of what Axtell posted and my shot again all on the same post, may gvie some clarity for you.



View attachment 84642





View attachment 84643

Yes, yes Mike!

That #2 on your 2nd drawing looks like what I need. I'll see if I can print this up and take to the dealer with me. Even if it's not available anymore, now that I see whats happening here, I'm sure I can fab. something up that will work.

I'll let you guys know what happens on this.

After breaking three TPS,s (My orig. and two new!) this IS a big deal to me.

Thanks guys, Ray

 

[Axtell3]

I shot this with the cell. on mine, number 2 is reversed from the orientation they show in the illustration above. The tps has a round flange that fits right into the large hole. then the ears on 2 touch the ears on 18 in the other illustration... That's the way it is on my 97.

I just did the bushings Sunday, and have to say it made my 3rd and 4th lock up shifts much cleaner. I was expecting the bushings to be completely gone, I couldn't see the wear, but obviously there was too much, as after the replacement I can't wiggle the lever up and down anymore.

 

[RCarrillo]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but while were talkin' TPS, Has anyone installed a tps delete kit out there , and how do you like it ?

 

[RHestand]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but while were talkin' TPS, Has anyone installed a tps delete kit out there , and how do you like it ?

Yes, as a matter of fact, I bought and installed a potentiometer ($5 Radio Shack and $10 wire from Home Depot) after I broke my second TPS. It actually worked good but I need to return my truck to the trans. shop for warranty work (Torq. conv. drain back over night. ) and I didn't want to have them complain about the potentiometer.
Somebody told me there is a guy on line (Ebay?) selling a kit for $40. If I were you I would just Google it.
Ray

 

[RCarrillo]

Yeah, Thanks, Ray, I just ordered one from DNR Customs ( Diesel Performance Shop ) I was curious as to how it works w/ the ATS triple lock, and if it helps when towing? ( I have trans command also )

 

[Axtell3]

I did also, but I wasn't satisfied with what it was doing. I'm not sure it was a bad POT or what.

 

[JMcCoy]

I went to radio shack and wired it in myself for around $10. 00. I have the ATS 5 star converter w/ lock-up cammander. They work together great. It wires in the same. Between the potentiometer and the Commander, I have almost total control of the transmission. It I no longer lug the engine, while driving around town, because it will hold 3rd gear until I want it to shift into OD. This has been an issue for me since I have 35" tires and 3. 55 gears (soon to be 4. 10). The only down side to the TPS delete is that it does not down shift on its own when you try to pass on the highway. You just have to hit the OD off button on the shifter. This is not really a down side because I would have to hit the button anyways to keep it from up shifting too soon. Do it, you will not be disapointed.

 

[Axtell3]

Mine was a radio shack as well, I just didn't get a consistant lock up with it.

 

[JMcCoy]

I have had the ATS Commander prior to the POT so I don't know how it would operate without it. I cannot say enough for the combo. It locks up and shifts cosistantly exactly when I want it to. I was regretting not swapping in a manual bofore the POT. I have mine set to lock up in 3rd gear around 40 mph and shift into OD at around 50 mph (depending on load). That may not be ideal for you since your tires and gears may be different. It is very rare to read a complaint of the TPS delete. I'm not sure why it didn't work out for you. I might double check that you had the right POT. They offer several and only one will work. I posted the part #'s a while back after my install.

RHestant: All that said, I believe you will need that bracket either route you take. If you leave your TPS in place, you don't have to mess with linkages, and you can easily go back to stock. Good luck.

 

[Axtell3]

I think it was a junky pot. I did do the right one and it worked about a month. Then when it started acting wonky, I plugged the tps back in and it was better than my mod. so I stopped messing with it.

Having done the bushing replacement, I wonder if the bushings don't just affect the TPS, but the tv cable too.