WHY can my buddie's Ford eat my Dodge's lunch?

[MEby]

Thanks for the thoughts Tabbott, my problem is not low power, I got lots of that, I just can't use it because of the egts. But I'll check for loose hoses anyway. Good thought. I don't understand "intake ports" do you mention where the injectors are or intake valves? Thanks again

I dont think he meant low low power, just less than what you would have with a leak free air system. Which would certainly explain your high egt's.

 

[DCreed]

are u sure ur exhaust brake is fully open? what kind is it?

 

[Hendricks]

another thing to think of is can u verify that your pyro is accurate. My autometer always read about 200 degrees hotter than what it was really doing. didnt know until the guage went eratic and finally quit working.

 

[Cattletrkr]

My rig, dresses out at 19,000 pounds. That's the truck, 11' camper, steel car trailer and 1966 Bronco (on the trailer)...

... I don't know what buddie's trailer weighs in at but it's a long legged toy hauler with an International Scout (aka Tank) loaded inside. His off roader out weighs my Bronco by a good 500 pounds. I don't know if the toy hauler weighs as much as my 2500 pound camper and 1,000 pound car trailer. Since it's a good 34-35 footer I'd guess it to be at least equal or greater than my loaded weight.

He's pushing a lot less wind than you are. Your weights are close enough to be a relative non-factor. And yes, newer "chipped" trucks kick 17 different kinds of dog crap outta slightly modified older trucks... sorry.
EDIT: For some reason I was thinking you had smaller injectors when I said "slightly". Nevermind.

 

[TAbbott]

"I don't understand "intake ports" do you mention where the injectors are or intake valves? Thanks again"



I mean the charge air system goes all the way from the turbocharger outlet to the head, including the intake manifold. You could have a leak between the intake manifold and the head. When you're looking for a reason for high EGT's for the power you're making, the place to start is the charge air system. It doesn't take much of a leak to make a big difference in the temps.

 

[Bart]

Thanks for all the information. I'll be looking for almost any air leak as well as the brake being part way on and the temp at the Turbo. I have a thermo gun so that is an excellent idea. I believe I'll wave an unlite propane torch around the engine to see if I pick up rpms

I just talked to friend tonight who is planning on moving up to an 08 Ford. He says he won't go back to Dodge since they screwed him on his warranty (after he bombed his 03).

Thanks again for all the information. If anyone thinks of anything else I'll be greatful.

 

[raychem]

Do you have a GSK on your truck? I did not read all the posts or see it in your sig, but if you don't have one... . get one. It will help you immensly.



Richard

 

[TAbbott]

"I believe I'll wave an unlite propane torch around the engine to see if I pick up rpms"



If your engine was naturally aspirated, that'd probably work. Since it's turbocharged, and the pressure inside the intake air system is (hopefully) pressurized to a level beyond 1 atmosphere (even at idle) the unlit propane torch idea isn't gonna work. You need to pressurize the intake air system by using shop air while the turbo hose at the turbo itself is blocked off. There should be a crankshaft position where all of your intake and exhaust valves are closed (there is on a Detroit Series 60, at any rate). Turn the engine over by hand until you find that point where you will start to build pressure with the shop air, as it's no longer blowing through the cylinders and out the exhaust.



Keep adding shop air to whatever pressure level your maximum boost achieves when you are under full throttle load. You will likely find one or more leaks by spraying soapy water on all of the joints or just by listening for any air leaks by the time you get the presure built up to say, 15 psi. Pay particular attention to the end tanks on your air to air, more particularly to the hot side which is where they normally fail, at the seam connecting the hot side tank to the cross tubes. My bet is that you will find a large leak somewhere. Correct that and problem is solved.

 

[Doubleclutch]

Bart- sounds like I've been there- done that. Everybody's kicking the same rock, I think, only not saying what I think they're trying to say- you need more combustion air. You have plenty of fuel because your egts get too high (too much fuel) GSK won't help because even spinning the engine faster yields egt problems. That rig of yours is pushing the bow wave of a semi, along with your measured weight. My '96 truck dynoed at around 525 hp, and UNLOADED I had to back off on the baker grade heading back to the west coast from Vegas because of a big single turbo (Switzer H2E) and excess fuel. (egt) Twins would help.

Greg

 

[robertyoke]

some of the 6. 0h no do in fact run and run well.

your buddy just got a good one. :-laf

-robert

 

[Bart]

Thanks Tabbott, I'll try the shop air.

I had the engine running last night with the exhaust brake on. With 400* on the gauge I was reading 300 on a thermo gun I have. This morning at brother's house I had him hold the thermo gun on the spot where the probe is. With the brakes, applied in gear I acceraletated until the gauge said 1000*. The gun was reading 500*. I called Geno's Garage to get a new probe and he said that is normal. Much hotter inside than outside the manifold.

What is this GSK? I'm under the impression that it was different valve springs. I already have 60 # exhaust springs. Inlighten me.

Hendricks, Geno's said that the probe is either working or not. Being off in it's readings is not an option.

I was driving back from Barstow today and at 65 mph, in overdrive, with the A/C on and only the camper SHELL on I was reading between 900 and a 1000* Tack was at 2100 rpms.

I was wondering, since I have a stiffer spring in the AFC housing and the star wheel only 10 clicks from all the way forward, should I start adding more clicks to the star wheel? Will that help on the top end???????????????

 

[rubberneck]

1100F is far too high for towing on level ground, unless you are driving into a really hefty headwind.



Is the turbo running inside its 'map'? If outside, it could contribute to high EGT.

Fest hit it on the head.

Been there done that. You are going to get 10 posts after me telling me i'm wrong, but try this. Put your hx35 back on and tow the load. Change NOTHING else and report your EGT's to us. I bet you drop several hundred degrees while towing. It wont be near as much fun when hotrodding empty, but towing you will do better. I commonly switch my 35 back on when towing alot, and put the B1 on during the off season. I would love to build a nice set of towing twins to have the best compromise between both worlds, but the budget is too tight right now.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

Fest hit it on the head.

Been there done that. You are going to get 10 posts after me telling me i'm wrong, but try this. Put your hx35 back on and tow the load. Change NOTHING else and report your EGT's to us. I bet you drop several hundred degrees while towing. It wont be near as much fun when hotrodding empty, but towing you will do better. I commonly switch my 35 back on when towing alot, and put the B1 on during the off season. I would love to build a nice set of towing twins to have the best compromise between both worlds, but the budget is too tight right now.

I will agree with this. Try your HX-35, and see if it cools things down when towing. A good compromise here, is to turn it into a hybrid. With mine, my cruising EGT's with a load are around 700-800, and pulling a hill, they will run up to about 1000-1100. I also run a valet switch, especially when towing.

 

[Hendricks]

my guage had a intermitent short internally. same probe, new guage

 

[Bart]

Fest hit it on the head.

Been there done that. You are going to get 10 posts after me telling me i'm wrong, but try this. Put your hx35 back on and tow the load. Change NOTHING else and report your EGT's to us. I bet you drop several hundred degrees while towing. It wont be near as much fun when hotrodding empty, but towing you will do better. I commonly switch my 35 back on when towing alot, and put the B1 on during the off season. I would love to build a nice set of towing twins to have the best compromise between both worlds, but the budget is too tight right now.

Morning Rubberneck, question, would turning the star wheel out more do the same thing?

Since I still have the smaller turbo, how much would it cost to go twin turbos?

Can you buy just the device to bolt both turbos on the engine?

Will the 35 bolted back on require me to replace my fpp, readjust the star wheel. Will the 35 feed those 370 injectors?

I don't race around but once in a blue moon (month where there's two full moons)

Just so I'm prepared when changing back to the 35, do I need to have an adaptor from the 35 to the new 4" exhaust or will they bolt up together?



Ram/hogs. When you say hybrid, are you refering to making it a twin turbo or something else?



I still don't know what "being outside it's map" means

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[MEby]

Try searching, i'm sure I read a thread on tdr somewhere once about map effiency.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Being outside it's map simply means operating out of the range where it works efficiently. That could be either not enough air flow to drive it - slow to spool up/build boost. Or trying to produce too much boost with it so that it's producing a lot more heat. All turbo's have a range that they operate efficiently in. That's one of the primary reasons for twin turbos - you have a small turbo to build boost quickly and a larger turbo that can take over on the high end and produce lots of boost without lots of heat.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I doubt you're outside the map... outside the map typicly means surging to the left and overheated air on the right... you're just not up on the turbo in the sweet spot of the map.



put a GSK in it and tow above 23-2400, I bet EGT's will come down as the turbo will actually be lit up and making some boost.

 

[DCreed]

whats a GSK ?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

governor spring kit. should be the first mod done to any 12v engine